Ok guys, this is my first ever how-to, and I'm doing it all from my phone, so sorry if the pics aren't the greatest.
This isn't going to be a flood of pictures with every single bolt, but should suffice if you've never built an engine.
I am an ASE certified former Honda technician, and building engines is my bread and butter, so feel free to ask any questions you might have. (pm me please, don't muck up my diy, I wanna keep it clean and on topic, thanks.)
On with the pictures!
First and foremost, you CAN reuse your head-bolts, but, use your common sense, if they look like s**t, it the threads are boogered up, get new ones.
This engine had 129k original miles, and the head bolts cleaned up nice, so I reused them.
Now, you want to make certain that the block is squeaky clean, and free of any traces of old gasket or oil. Also, make sure it's flat, if you don't have a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges, take the block to the machine shop and have them check it. You'll be there anyway to drop the head off.
Block is ready for new gasket and machined head.
Notice I got new head dowels, I ALWAYS replace these, they're super cheap, do it.
New dowels and MLS head gasket installed.
Now, on to the head. I can not stress this enough: RESURFACE THE HEAD! I also got a 3 angle valve job, and new valve seals installed.
Now it's time to install and torque the head bolts. Get your container of choice, and pour enough oil in it to submerge the bolt heads while holding the washers back, then let the washers slide down. You want to do it this way so the washer gets completely covered in oil. Not doing this will cause the bolts to "hop" and you will get false torque readings.
I thought I took a pic with the oil container siting on top of the head, but apparently not. sorry.
Now torque the bolts, in the proper order, in 2 steps. 22 ft lbs, followed by 49 ft lbs. (do all 10 bolts, then go back and do them again, following the proper order.
Here is the head, properly torqued.
And that's where I'm at for now, stay tuned...
Next I will be removing the oil pan to replace the rear main seal and holder gaskets, front pump seal, pick up tube seal, and oil pan gasket.
Sent from my craptastic metro pcs android using Tapatalk2
This isn't going to be a flood of pictures with every single bolt, but should suffice if you've never built an engine.
I am an ASE certified former Honda technician, and building engines is my bread and butter, so feel free to ask any questions you might have. (pm me please, don't muck up my diy, I wanna keep it clean and on topic, thanks.)
On with the pictures!
First and foremost, you CAN reuse your head-bolts, but, use your common sense, if they look like s**t, it the threads are boogered up, get new ones.
This engine had 129k original miles, and the head bolts cleaned up nice, so I reused them.
Now, you want to make certain that the block is squeaky clean, and free of any traces of old gasket or oil. Also, make sure it's flat, if you don't have a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges, take the block to the machine shop and have them check it. You'll be there anyway to drop the head off.
Block is ready for new gasket and machined head.
Notice I got new head dowels, I ALWAYS replace these, they're super cheap, do it.
New dowels and MLS head gasket installed.
Now, on to the head. I can not stress this enough: RESURFACE THE HEAD! I also got a 3 angle valve job, and new valve seals installed.
Now it's time to install and torque the head bolts. Get your container of choice, and pour enough oil in it to submerge the bolt heads while holding the washers back, then let the washers slide down. You want to do it this way so the washer gets completely covered in oil. Not doing this will cause the bolts to "hop" and you will get false torque readings.
I thought I took a pic with the oil container siting on top of the head, but apparently not. sorry.
Now torque the bolts, in the proper order, in 2 steps. 22 ft lbs, followed by 49 ft lbs. (do all 10 bolts, then go back and do them again, following the proper order.
Here is the head, properly torqued.
And that's where I'm at for now, stay tuned...
Next I will be removing the oil pan to replace the rear main seal and holder gaskets, front pump seal, pick up tube seal, and oil pan gasket.
Sent from my craptastic metro pcs android using Tapatalk2