How To (sort of) JDM B16A SiRII into a 95 coupe

caddy

I found Waldo
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Warning! Lots to read!

I ran into so many unknowns, when swapping my JDM B16A SiR2 that i'd thought i'd share my experiences so that someone else might benefit and make it easier for them. I didn't get into the technical step-by-step, but more so the things to expect and avoid:

The JDM B16A SiR II Swap Story...
Some things they’ll tell you, and some things they won’t:

I thought I’d share my experiences with swapping a B16A SiR II (obd1) into a 95 Civic Si Coupe (that would be an EX for you U.S. peeps) cuz I ran into issues that took forever to find the answer. "Oh it's all plug and go!" Well, no not really.
First off, it started with me driving my Civic Coupe at about 1am in the morning sporting the D16Z6 SOHC engine on the highway, shifting around 7500rpm when all of sudden the engine lost all power and trails of thick black smoke coming out from the rear. I pull over to the side of the road. What the heck happened? An 86 Corolla Hatch pulls up next to me. “Hey man, you ok? You need to phone someone?” “I’m good, I got a phone” I reply. He continues: “That was so cool! Flames and black smoke coming out the back like that!” Well after making sure I was alright he took off and I call a tow truck. While waiting for the truck, I push my car a little ways to get it near the street light, to get a better view under the hood. My fears were confirmed: I had thrown a rod through the block. (later inspection revealed there were signs of long term oil starvation, probably from the previous owner neglecting oil changes)
My feelings were neutral. For a while I had been thinking about doing a B-Series swap, but I didn’t think these were the circumstances in which I would be doing it sooner rather than later. So time to take the bus to work, and the money i’d save in gas/insurance would help fund the swap. While I was gathering the cash together, I took the opportunity to study as much about swapping the B-series as possible. Having a limited budget, yet wanting something that I can extract generous amounts of horsepower down the road, I decided on the Second Generation JDM B16A. It also appealed to me because of the high redline and optimum rod/stroke ratio which would let me rev the hell out of it (with proper modification of course!). As you can tell from my previous bad experience, I like my engines to rev high.
The time came to buy the motor. I sourced one out from a local shop that imported JDM Engines. Because I worked at a dealership, I struck a little bit of a wholesale deal and got my motor for a reasonable price with the optional Viscous LSD and a header (as my d-series header would no longer fit).
So the engine arrives at my work, and there it was sitting right next to my hoist (I’m an Auto Tech Apprentice by trade), taunting me to swap it NOW! It took large amounts of self control to actually work on OTHER peoples vehicles while the engine sat there looking at me. But I did spend every break, lunch hour, evening and weekend on the thing until it was done.

So it turns out the complete swap is not really a COMPLETE swap. Things that I needed that it did not have were:

-Both driver side mounts. It turns out the mount on the timing cover on the Si/EX is similar to a GSR mount and will not fit the B16 (I was given one free of charge thankfully – make sure you get the 2 mounting nuts with it too!). The CX/DX/VX all have the correct mount as far as I know.
-Rear Transmission mount bracket. (again I was given one free of charge)
-Axles – Any axle from a 94-00 Integra without ABS will work.
-Half Shaft/Intermediate Shaft – So you know that longer axle on the driver side? Well the Integra uses 2 short axles and to pick up the rest of the length on the driver side, a half-shaft is mounted between the CV-Axle and the tranny. Sourcing one was fun (not really). No one had one except for one place that wanted $200 for the half-shaft. So I got one sent overnight shipping from a mail order auto wrecker for about half that. BUT! I didn’t get the mounting bolts for it. Again luckily, the shop that sold me the motor gave them to me free of charge.
-Shift Linkage – They say you need a shift linkage from a 94-00 Integra, which is true, but they don’t tell you that the fork is too wide to fit on your current shifter. My solve was to add 2 thick washers on either side in between the fork and shifter. It seems to work well, but I would like to get a longer bolt as the nut just fits on the end. The other option is to cut your linkage and weld the old for on your integra bar. OR simply lengthen your old linkage. I didn’t choose to do that cuz I suck at welding.

The Little Things:
-Upper/Lower radiator hoses. Ah there’s a few ways to do this. You can use rad hoses from a 94-00 Integra or from a DelSol DOHC Vtec. If you keep the radiator which you have, the outlets are smaller than the rad hose diameter. To correct this, you can cut a piece of your old hose and use it as a bushing between the new hose and the rad outlet. I did that on the top one, but on the bottom, I just used a worm clamp and tightened the hell out of it. It works fine. The proper fix would be to get a delsol DOHC Vtec dual core radiator which will have slightly larger outlets and bolt in perfectly. For all the other coolant hoses you can transfer them from your SOHC motor. They’ll fit fine.
-Clutch Cylinder. There’s 2 ways to do this too. Either transfer you clutch cylinder (which I would recommend) or swap the line and hose (may be easier, but you could risk pinching the steel line)
-Fuel lines. Use the connector from the B16 to the fuel rail, but use your original fuel line from the filter. Is the fuel line on your B16 cut? If it is, make note of this. And I’ll tell you why later.
-Throttle Cable. You’re throttle cable is going to be too short. You’ll need a longer one. Most people will recommend a Type-R throttle cable. You don’t need to pay eleventy billion dollars for one of those, because a 90-93 Integra throttle cable will work beautifully! And it will probably cost you well under $30!
-O2 Sensor. I’m afraid I don’t have that much information on this one. I didn’t have to lengthen or rewire my O2 Sensor because I had bought one before with a longer wire to reach my previous header so it reached fine and plugged in fine.

Physically swapping the motor:
-Pulling out the old motor and putting in the new one requires 2 people to go smoothly. I’m grateful for having access to a vehicle hoist and an engine hoist. It made things very easy.


Continued...
 

caddy

I found Waldo
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I won’t go into detail about physically removing the motor, but I will tell you something VERY important. The wiring harness. The harness included with the JDM B16A is meant for a right hand drive vehicle. You need to swap your old harness in. What they won’t tell you is that you may need to lengthen some connectors on the harness to make them reach the sensors. ( I believe about 3 or 4 of them need it). You might be able to make them stretch, but that’s the poor way of doing things. SWAP THE HARNESS/HOSES WHILE THE ENGINE IS OUT! It will make things so much easier. 2 reasons for this. If you remove the harness and add your old harness, doing it sensor by sensor and plug by plug, ground by ground, you will have the peace of mind that you didn’t plug the sensor in a wrong socket. Second, it’s a b***h to feed in the wiring when the engine is back in.
Make sure the mounts are tight. The Axles are in. The castle nuts on your lower suspension have cotter pins in them. All fluids are in. Oil/Coolant/Tranny fluid (just as a side note, the Viscous LSD for the 2nd Generation B16s use Honda MTF. It took a while for me to find out that the LSD in this one is NOT Helical like the ITRs and NOT clutch like the original B16s. Remember that you need to make sure there’s no air lock in coolant or it won’t flow, and you’ll overheat quickly when it warms up. Removing one of the back coolant hoses while filling it will remedy this.
A quick tip when filling oil:
Since this B16 has probably been sitting for a while, the oil is probably old and clumping/depositing in the engine. The solution: Instead of adding the 4 full liters of oil, add 3 litres of oil and 1 litre of ATF (that’s right, I said Automatic Transmission Fluid) and your oil filter of course. Why? ATF is a detergent and will help clean the inside of the engine. But it is also a lubricant and will not dilute the oil you have in there to a large degree. Run it in you engine for about half an hour, running it at different RPMs. Then do another oil change on it (with another new filter!) and put in the oil you want (mobil1 for me!) DISCLAIMER: I’m not responsible for any damage caused by this procedure should you attempt it. Nevertheless, i’ve never had any issues doing it, and have actually freed the carbon off of rings and restored compression on some vehicles.
Starting the Car:
So engine is in. Wiring harness hooked up to the sensor/ECU. All grounds attached. All Injectors properly hooked up. All plug wires in the proper firing order. I turn over the key. The engine sputters for a few seconds, and then dies. I start the car again – same thing. Then I try a third time – engine turns over but will not catch at all. DAMN!
I test for spark. No problems. I listen for the Fuel Pump priming when I turn on the key. Fuel Pump is turning on. I test for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Fuel is getting to the rail. Oh great, something’s wrong with the wiring and the injectors are not getting a pulse. But wait, the injectors ARE getting pulse. There’s only one thing left: The injectors themselves. Could all 4 injectors be bad? I swap over all 4 injectors from my D16Z6 (they are identical to the ones on the B16) and in about 10 minutes, they’re in. I turn over the key, it turns over aaaaaannnndd….. still keeps turning over and not starting. Oh great. What the hell is wrong? OH! Oops, I forgot to pull off the fuel line clamp when I was swapping the injectors.




I pull off the fuel line clamp; stick in the key and… VROOM! The engine comes to life and sounds beautiful. (And loud with no exhaust on it yet!) Remember earlier I was talking about the fuel line being cut? Well, if an engine has been sitting for a while and moisture/air gets into the fuel line, it will travel to the injectors and cause them to corrode internally. They may be salvageable, but you need to get them sonic cleaned at a shop. But it was nice to have Honda put 240cc Injectors on the SOHC engines as well as the DOHCs. So the old ones swap right over.
Anyway, I let it warm up and burp the coolant. I bleed the clutch, make sure everything is tight and take it for a drive in the parking lot. I press the clutch and the clutch feels stiff. Wait no, the clutch doesn’t work at all! Oh damn I forgot to tighten the bleeder screw on the clutch cylinder. Okay, bleed the clutch again. Tighten the bleeder screw. Go for a road test.
Vtec will not engage cuz I haven’t hooked up the knock sensor. But I take it out for a run anyways. My friend is in the passenger seat as we try it out. I explain to him that vtec will not kick in because of the knock sensor not being hooked up, and that the engine needs to get up to proper temp also. Well, after a few minutes, I take it to around 5800rpm and all of a sudden the engine begins to roar and pull hard! A little red LED mounted to my dash turns on (my light attached to my vtec solenoid). Vtec has engaged! “Whoa, was that vtec?” My friend asks. “Yeah, that’s weird” I say back.
Well it turns out some JDM P30 ECUs will engage vtec without hooking up the knock sensor. I got lucky, but I will still wire it up. (I believe it retards timing if it doesn’t find the knock sensor).
After a while of driving, I would get a check engine light (Code 23 – knock sensor). But it didn’t affect the vtec engagement or performance thus far.
Another note for you Canadian Civics out there. You’ll most likely get a code 20 (ELD Electrical Load Detector) because the JDM and USDM (I think) cars DO have them, but our cars from the great white north do not! It’s a soft code, so it will store it in memory, but will not set a check engine light usually. The only way to disable this is cut the jumper on the ECU (I have no idea where it is), ground it out, or get a chipped ECU and disable it altogether. Or you can add an ELD too, but there really is no need.
So it’s a 35 minute drive from work to home. I take the opportunity to get acquainted with the new demon that has possessed my civic. The gears are a lot shorter than the D16Z6. At 120km/h (that’s around 75mph for you USA folks) I’m doing 4000rpm! But they sure eliminate any gear bogging problems I had a certain speeds with the old motor. I had to be careful sometimes, I thought I was in 3rd gear and not 5th gear (cuz im reving a lot higher) that I would down shift into 2nd (oops!). Well I hadn’t even been driving the car 10 minutes, when I get my first “test kill” for the day. A 2000 Acura 3.2TL gets right on my ass as we are taking an on ramp to the highway. He floored it as we came to the highway and passed me driving over the divider lines before the on ramp actually merged with the highway. I took pursuit. Both of us accelerating hard. He had the jump on me but I was coming up fast on his bumper. I swap lanes and wave as I pass him. He is now trying to catch up to me, but fails miserably. Wow, I never was able to beat one of those with my single cam.


My lucky day. I come off the exit ramp onto another main road. And no sooner had I stopped at the lights, a modified Jetta 1.8t pulls up next to me. Revving the engine, hearing the aftermarket blow off valve, and spotting the boost controller inside the cockpit, I think “ah what the hell, why not see how badly I’ll lose”. Light turns green. There’s virtually no tire squeal as I have LSD and I’m sure he has traction control. He starts pulling slightly on me, but my power band is wide and he falls back slightly as he shifts and I keep pulling to 8200rpm. Second gear, he starts closing in again but I still have the wide power band advantage. Third gear, things are getting fast, and now the red jetta starts pulling ahead of me. I’m no match for his turbo. And we come to the next stop light – just about to turn green. I gave him the thumbs up. He smiled and looking impressed, returned my sportsman-like signal. Then waved goodbye. We went our separate ways. I’d say I put up a good fight: 10 year old 1.6L Naturally Aspirated vs. almost new 1.8L Turbo.
I’m very satisfied with this engine. It still pulls hard even with 3 extra people in the car or up hills! Now I can’t wait to add new valve train/cams, intake manifold/throttle body and some ECU tuning to the mix. And take it to the track to get some times!

On a side note, I’ve had some fluctuation with my idle. When I swapped the motor, I accidentally broke the TPS on the intake manifold. It’s right in the way when dropping the motor in the engine bay, so be careful. I was able to swap it from my D16Z6 (again, identical) but on my SOHC they were riveted on as apposed to screwed on like the DOHC. I had to grind off the rivets and use a punch/chisel to get the sensor off. Once transferring the sensor over, for the idle to be right, you need to tune the TPS to the proper position and get proper voltage from it (I believe its .45v but I haven’t done anything with it as of yet)
 


Inigo Montoya

powered by boost
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Cool deal. Very long winded post man.. I admit I didn't read more than half of the first post because this info doesn't pertain to me.

Just a heads up though... I wouldn't recommend cutting and welding the shift linkages unless you absolutely know what you are doing. If your geometry is off, your shift pattern will be royally screwed.
 

Skirpp

Do Work
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my eyes hurt lol. Nice job man. 1.8t's are no joke modded..stock there a 3 legged dog in a race, slow and useless lol.. i cant wait to have another bseries!! AHH!! nice job, POST PICS!
 


JR-Style

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cool write up, im from canada also (okanagan, BC) and im also an apprentice mechanic. Im in school as we speak building my jdm b16a with lsd. I cant wait to see how it pulls specially cause im used to a d15b7. also one point, i also broke the tps on my b16 and had to use one off a d16 that was spare layin around, but thoe arent rivets, you wasted lotsa time drillin/grinding them, all i had to do was cut a notch into it, then UNSCREW IT! hehe yes, they are screws with rivet looking heads, just use an impact driver or something and it comes out very very easy. anyway, good luck with that man, keep updates of you times!
 

caddy

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Yes, I should have noted that if you're not comfortable with welding, it's probably not a good idea to cut/weld the shift linkage as it has to be fairly acurate. Thanx for pointing that out.

Also, yes I did try to unscrew the rivet heads but they were seized on. It's ok though. It only took me less then 10 minutes to get them off with the tools at my disposal =)
 

Bouncer

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nice story. you should post up some pics! oh and how much do you think the whole setup cost? with all the little nic naks included.
 

deaconwagers

...now rockin an integra
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nice write up and great information, but shouldn't this be in the "how-to" section?
 

caddy

I found Waldo
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I'd say the whole setup with additions and unexpected stuff was about $3300 canadian with taxes included. (all labour done by me and a friend of course)

As for putting this in the how-to, can't post there. The mods can move it if they think it's worthy.

Oh and you can add a BMW 328i to the kill list
 

anarchyaudiorob

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great write up i myself am swaping my d16z to a b16a sir II with lsd trans. Big help with radiator hoses and brackets.
 


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