motor swap questions

[MartieMar]

Hey everyone. I have a 97 civic Dx sedan. With income tax time coming I want to get a different motor. My question is what will be the best high revving motor that i can get? When I do get the motor I plan on rebuilding it and do forced induction. Yeah I know its a 4 door but I want to be different. I looked online for a bit and seen a type r motor, but I think there are better ones out there. Maybe someone has a site that they know of with some tech info on rebuilds and Turbo setups. I may find a hatch with a blown motor or shell and start from scratch or go with a 4 Dr. Tell me what you think

 

[Mysteryemotionz]

4dr ftw
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[TigBitties]

whats your budget, if you want to build it for boost and swap at the same time. put 5k+ aside

 

[MartieMar]

5k doesn't seem to far its doable. What should I be looking for to spend it wisely.

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[TigBitties]

it all depends on the route you want to take and your power goals. what power are you aiming for? 5k is a low cost i would say. fully built motors from bottom to top, plus everything to swap, engine management, and shop cost to do things such as port and polish, put in sleeves, matching the sleeves to the pistons. it go can up to 10k and more.

we need more details, i recommend looking into this a bit more and see what your getting yourself into.

 

[JohnS.]

Any motor can be built to handle boost if you've got the money. Like 1SIK said, it all depends on you. Your budget, your goals, etc.

 

[TigBitties]

here is an example of how it adds up quick

i just spent 350 on my mounts from jay jay alone, an s300 will run you 500 range, thats only two of the things you need and they are not that expensive. still have sleeves, rods, pistons, bearings, studs, bolts, valves, retainers, springs, cams, manifolds, turbo stuff, buying the motor and trans, a good clutch is in the 3-500 range, axles.

Im not trying to scare you out of this, just saying be ready. whatever you expect to spend. add a grand or two on top. and dont forget a good tune which is around 500, unless you know someone that has proven to do good tunes

 

[MartieMar]

Well I know I want to reach more than 300 HP more towards 400+. I still want it street legal but also track ready. 1st I want to take the bottom and top end and have them machined. I need to find some good internals first so they can machine to spec. Turbo setup I guess is personal preference. Engine management is a bit trickery to me cause some people use stand alone and others use piggyback. They all have their pros and cons. I can pretty much figure out everything else but machine parts. Only thing here where I live is anyone who has a decent setup didn't put in the wrench time so the spent out of the ...... and doesn't really know anything. I guess what I need to find out is what motor is the holy grail of civics.

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[MartieMar]

Not scared at all lol. Tuning is something I want to learn. I see how it all adds up fast that's why I waited a year and worked my tail off for this moment. I

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[JohnS.]

I guess what I need to find out is what motor is the holy grail of civics.

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Again...with money, any motor can handle boost. The highest HP D-Series is like 500-something last I heard and runs 9's. Maybe faster now. Been a while since I tried checking.

 

[TigBitties]

Well I know I want to reach more than 300 HP more towards 400+. I still want it street legal but also track ready. 1st I want to take the bottom and top end and have them machined. I need to find some good internals first so they can machine to spec. Turbo setup I guess is personal preference. Engine management is a bit trickery to me cause some people use stand alone and others use piggyback. They all have their pros and cons. I can pretty much figure out everything else but machine parts. Only thing here where I live is anyone who has a decent setup didn't put in the wrench time so the spent out of the ...... and doesn't really know anything. I guess what I need to find out is what motor is the holy grail of civics.

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ok, well imo i would build a gsr. you can definitely hit your hp goal of 300 with this and get closer to 350+ unsleeved pretty easy. there are quite a few built gsr's out there hitting 450-500. if you can get it sleeved to have the displacement of a b20 but b20s have thinner cylinder walls which is one of their weaknesses. it also is more reliable than a ls/v setup. both the b20 and ls/v have horrible rod stroke ratios which is why they are not as reliable of a setup. they are prone to cracked cylinder walls and such. So i feel like a rambled on there but do you plan on sleeving the motor? thats the ultimate question there

DO NOT DO PIGGYBACK. they are not nearly as good and i only recommend them until you can get a stand alone and tune done. i recommend s300. The only pro to a piggyback is its price, but thats it.

any other questions? i would sit on youtube and watch some videos of different setups and just search up what people have made

 

[MartieMar]

D series huh. Sounds good the ones I seen online were fairly cheap. What do you think about b series? If it was you what would you go with and say you had 5k just for the motor alone.

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[Failsafe88]

Why do you want something that can rev real high anyways? Could always go with a k Frankenstein swap

 

[emerican]

D series huh. Sounds good the ones I seen online were fairly cheap. What do you think about b series? If it was you what would you go with and say you had 5k just for the motor alone.

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I would still go with 1sik and do the gsr for all the reasons he just listed above me

 

[MartieMar]

I seen a you tube video with a civic that revved to I think 10k vs one that red lined to about 6 to 8k and it dominated up hill on the track and on the straight. I would still have it limited so I don't over do it but I still want it to produce power at high revs. What would be the code or what not for a gsr b16 ... just so I can pinpoint my search. For me it is easier to have the motor I'm gonna get then plan from there ...parts...bolt ins etc.

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[Themegajosh09]

I swapped a b18c1 (gsr) into my 97 coupe and I spent 1k for engine with 117k miles with axles and ecu. I spent another 2 grand on mounts belts brackets pulleys fluids and exhaust. So in the end my full swap took me 3 grand and I don't have turbo or built engine. I'd say if you build it and turbo it right you will easily spend 6k

 

[MartieMar]

I swapped a b18c1 (gsr) into my 97 coupe and I spent 1k for engine with 117k miles with axles and ecu. I spent another 2 grand on mounts belts brackets pulleys fluids and exhaust. So in the end my full swap took me 3 grand and I don't have turbo or built engine. I'd say if you build it and turbo it right you will easily spend 6k

Did you get it online or knew someone? 2k for all that isn't bad at all even 3k. With it built it would still be a rocket without forced induction for a min.

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[TigBitties]

b18c1

and you can find gull gsr swaps for cheaper than 3k. my friend has a complete gsr swap with everything you need and some aftermarket bolt ons for 2k ready to go in. i would say go gsr if you can drop 5k, and depending on the condition of the motor you can get the stuff to boost and depending how you go about that route you can buy your engine managment, dont get piggyback. and be close to boosting on stock internals and push 300 easily

 

[CHILD]

Ive seen pretty much every engine built to the OP's power goals and beyond.
tons of 350-500hp D series
insane B18b1's (old school Cheesefrog comes to mind for the O.G.'s)
Almost every GSR with a turbo goes all out
A few baller's who take the time to properly boost Type R's
K series in the 400-500 with stock internals
H and H2B's with
B20 turbos

its just how you want to spend the money. If you want to rebuild and machine it all, then get the cheapest longblock you can find either d series or non-vtec b series. Wanting to rev sky high and make high boost numbers is a retarded idea (no offense) Its do-able....but why? And im pretty sure the video you saw must have been the civic type R vs the Spoon type R. The extra revs were beneficial for corner entry and exit only because it kept it in the higher part of the power band for the low torque motor. It didnt make more power. You have to consider the crazy piston speeds with the higher revs

 

[TigBitties]

also at the high of a rpm you have to have the head and block built for that, and really you dont make that much power at that high. your peak power is made below 10k normally. its kind of a waste