Thanks for furthering my point
motor swap questions
- Thread starter MartieMar
- Start date
MartieMar
New Member
Well I'm some what new to this so any input is good. I don't want to build something that will explode on me. I looked online for motors an found that gsr motors are more common than a type-r. I have a friend that know someone inthe Honda scene that will look out for one unless I get one first. Now that I have a motor in mind I can plan the upgrades from there.Thanks for furthering my point
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still wondering whats the point in spending the cash on the gsr motor when you're just going to rebuild the entire motor anyway? Everything that makes a gsr a gsr will be replaced minus the oil squirters and vtec (which isn't necessary in the first place)
with a mild build and boost, i could justify the gsr motor...extensively modifying, no.
with a mild build and boost, i could justify the gsr motor...extensively modifying, no.
its more reliable than ls/v due to the rod stroke ratio and if he wants to boost that puts a lot of stress on the cylinder walls.still wondering whats the point in spending the cash on the gsr motor when you're just going to rebuild the entire motor anyway? Everything that makes a gsr a gsr will be replaced minus the oil squirters and vtec (which isn't necessary in the first place)
with a mild build and boost, i could justify the gsr motor...extensively modifying, no.
he still hasnt answered if he wants to sleeve or not which is why i recommended the gsr. but i also read somewhere that an oil cooler is built into gsr blocks? not totally sure on that though. if you sleeve you could get away with a reliable ls/v and bore it out to a 2.0
MartieMar
New Member
I'm still unsure about sleeving cause. I hear that people that do end up sleeving end up regretting it but then I hear different on those that do.they really didn't specify about what they had done to their motor if anything at all. I haven't read anything technical about so I'm gonna leave that as in answered for the times being. I didn't forget. I will let you what I read and send links to get feedback. All I want to do is get it right the first time and not spend more cash on another motor by doing something wrong. I have seen some where that some b series motor has a built in oil cooler but don't know the exact one. But is that a good also.... cause if so would like to putits more reliable than ls/v due to the rod stroke ratio and if he wants to boost that puts a lot of stress on the cylinder walls.
he still hasnt answered if he wants to sleeve or not which is why i recommended the gsr. but i also read somewhere that an oil cooler is built into gsr blocks? not totally sure on that though. if you sleeve you could get away with a reliable ls/v and bore it out to a 2.0
that down on my to do list.
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you can always add an external oil cooler, but then maybe it is the gsr that has a built i cooler. i would figure out what your intentions are and where you want to end up before deciding on a motor or anything.
dont build a motor to see where you end up. find a goal and build a motor to reach it
dont build a motor to see where you end up. find a goal and build a motor to reach it
i get that about the LS/VTEC. A straight LS b18b1 completely rebuilt for turbo could yield just as insane of numbers as a built GSR. The GSR doesn't have an oil cooler built in, it has oil squirters.its more reliable than ls/v due to the rod stroke ratio and if he wants to boost that puts a lot of stress on the cylinder walls.
he still hasnt answered if he wants to sleeve or not which is why i recommended the gsr. but i also read somewhere that an oil cooler is built into gsr blocks? not totally sure on that though. if you sleeve you could get away with a reliable ls/v and bore it out to a 2.0
Even a B16a2 rebuilt and boosted can get in the 500hp club no problem. CFT has done a bunch and a few others who started out with the simple b16 swap and wanted more power. The b16 also has the thickest cylinder walls. I only suggest the cheaper starting point just because it would be a waste of money if the internals are yanked and replaced.
EFhatchguy
New Member
Help me out!
Hey guys, once i get some cash together, i was planning on swapping an H22 into my '90 Hatch. I'd love to boost it one day, but for a while, i wanna see how far i can push it all motor. ive heard of some people having clearance problems with the hood though, anyone know anything about that?
Hey guys, once i get some cash together, i was planning on swapping an H22 into my '90 Hatch. I'd love to boost it one day, but for a while, i wanna see how far i can push it all motor. ive heard of some people having clearance problems with the hood though, anyone know anything about that?
MartieMar
New Member
So from what you said with the b16a2 being cheaper I can still achieve my pwr goal still swap my internals . Also with it having thick walls i dont have to sleeve it. I got what your saying. Now when i do change the innards do i go bigger pistions or stay the same size but forged either way.i get that about the LS/VTEC. A straight LS b18b1 completely rebuilt for turbo could yield just as insane of numbers as a built GSR. The GSR doesn't have an oil cooler built in, it has oil squirters.
Even a B16a2 rebuilt and boosted can get in the 500hp club no problem. CFT has done a bunch and a few others who started out with the simple b16 swap and wanted more power. The b16 also has the thickest cylinder walls. I only suggest the cheaper starting point just because it would be a waste of money if the internals are yanked and replaced.
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With the pistons is up to your choice. You can go with a factory spec sized piston or slight overbore since the cylinders will be honed, or even jump up 1800cc displacement without having the extra long stroke so you can retain some of those high revs you want without having insane piston speeds.So from what you said with the b16a2 being cheaper I can still achieve my pwr goal still swap my internals . Also with it having thick walls i dont have to sleeve it. I got what your saying. Now when i do change the innards do i go bigger pistions or stay the same size but forged either way.
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When and how you make your power will determine most of your build.
MartieMar
New Member
So do I build it to suite forced induction or build it all out (all motor) then boost itWith the pistons is up to your choice. You can go with a factory spec sized piston or slight overbore since the cylinders will be honed, or even jump up 1800cc displacement without having the extra long stroke so you can retain some of those high revs you want without having insane piston speeds.
When and how you make your power will determine most of your build.
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MartieMar
New Member
Absolutely. I got the boost bug when I drove my buddies twin Turbo supra. But never had the cash to do my own .....till now. 311. )(ddfBuild for boost if you for sure boosting it.
KAJPA
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really, its all just on what you prefer. you can do anything with anything with the right money and planning. you wanted somethign high reving and vtec motors tend to have a higher redline and larger displacement is nice for boost. in the end, idk. its what you prefer to do.