need help auto to manual conversion question

[rayej8]

OK so my question is it possible to put a cable transmission on an automatic EG???
you see i just recently bought an EG heres a pic

now ive talked to a tech from Hasport he said they only make an auto to manual for cable only hydro then he recomended me to get a cable frame rail for the eg....does anyone have an idea if maybe the mount bracket on the chassis can be cut and welded to make it compatible????

No im not buying a hydro transmission!!!! so dont post it please and thank you!!!

 

[rayej8]

bummpppp!
so i bought a mount bracket for $30 from a Dc its the same product number from that of the Eg and my new question is is it possible to get that bracket welded to make it compatible with the transmission i have??? anyone????

 

[AlaskaB16]

I wish I could help you out but I did an auto/manual using a B16 in my Ej1 so it was a different mechanical set up. Pics and comments in my sig link if that helps you any...

 

[rayej8]

thanks you have a pm sir and nice build hopefully i can get mine started pretty soon as well
oh and ur transmission is a hydro mines a cable thats whats making it a little bit more complicated but the pm kinda explains my idea

 

[mymmeryloss]

Good luck. Sorry im no help

 

[boosted to 26ps]

havent done an auto to manual conversion....but when i had my old delsol i used a b18c1 with a cable teg xsi transmission. that bolted right up to the car. then used a hydro to cable conversion. i guess im actually confused on what exactly you are talking about....oh duh the trans mount. if you are really careful you can remove the auto mount. then with the engine and transmission bolted together and at the proper angle, install the mount and the bracket on to the transmission. you should be able to have a little leeway on the cv axle angle...but not much, if it is too much you will be going through a lot of axles because of the angle being off and putting added stress on the joints. once you have the mount in the proper location....you can weld the new bracket on to the frame of the vehicle. just as an added precaution, i havent see it on any honda, but when your welding that close to the electronics.....i suggest disconnecting all the electrical (i.e. battery duh, ecu, ground wiring to the motor and so on....to prevent shorting out from voltage spikes). when welding i highly suggest using gas shielded mig or tig....no wire fed arc crap. you want a nice penetration on the metal which isnt that thick.....im thinking 14-16 amps/voltage (depending on what your welder reads....ours at work reads voltage), with a nice wire speed of about 220-250 (depending on how fast or slow you can weld and still lay nickles). on something like you are doin, do no just put a straight line weld, it will not hold.....do circles, and only do a 1 in pass then move to a different location or wait for it to cool to do another location....not 100% sure if you would suffer from warpage from that area....i doubt you will but i would just as a precaution..

hope this gives you some kind of direction.

 

[rayej8]

havent done an auto to manual conversion....but when i had my old delsol i used a b18c1 with a cable teg xsi transmission. that bolted right up to the car. then used a hydro to cable conversion. i guess im actually confused on what exactly you are talking about....oh duh the trans mount. if you are really careful you can remove the auto mount. then with the engine and transmission bolted together and at the proper angle, install the mount and the bracket on to the transmission. you should be able to have a little leeway on the cv axle angle...but not much, if it is too much you will be going through a lot of axles because of the angle being off and putting added stress on the joints. once you have the mount in the proper location....you can weld the new bracket on to the frame of the vehicle. just as an added precaution, i havent see it on any honda, but when your welding that close to the electronics.....i suggest disconnecting all the electrical (i.e. battery duh, ecu, ground wiring to the motor and so on....to prevent shorting out from voltage spikes). when welding i highly suggest using gas shielded mig or tig....no wire fed arc crap. you want a nice penetration on the metal which isnt that thick.....im thinking 14-16 amps/voltage (depending on what your welder reads....ours at work reads voltage), with a nice wire speed of about 220-250 (depending on how fast or slow you can weld and still lay nickles). on something like you are doin, do no just put a straight line weld, it will not hold.....do circles, and only do a 1 in pass then move to a different location or wait for it to cool to do another location....not 100% sure if you would suffer from warpage from that area....i doubt you will but i would just as a precaution..

hope this gives you some kind of direction.

Thank you!!! thats exactly what i was planning on doin seems finally someone understands what im saying
it makes me feel like now very possible and the welding will b done by my friend he has a Tig welder dont know the model but will do the job
all we need to do is find the angle i need to not put too much stress on the axles and try to bring it back to oem spec height i gotz to do some more research on that but really thanks
hopefully i will have everything done right after the new year still have a few things missing and i will b up and running

 

[boosted to 26ps]

finding the angle really isnt as tough as what you would expect....you can probably eyeball it if your good. i would take measurements on the axle at different locations. also i doubt you would have one but an angle indicator like this one below would give you a deff. number to go off of.

now cv angle is simple....too much x, y, z motion constantly in the shaft will prematurely wear out the spider, boot, rollers, cage, inner race, bearings or the inner joint. this is what you want to avoid. so here are some pics for reference.

exploded view of the cv, hub assembly and so on.

exploded view of the cv axle itself, notice the components which i described. these cannot take too much wear and tear. these components are not that beefy.

better view of the spider and inner joint. here you will notice that the rollers do not have a whole lot of movement in the inner joint. this is where you will have the most of your problems originating from. the cage and bearing at the other end are just as fragile if not more as the bearing are just housed by a thin cage

POINT BLANK....the more movement in all 3 axis...the more heat that is built up in the cv. the ideal angel would be i think from 4 to about 8 max degrees in the z axis (vertical). in the y axis (front to back)...is pretty much self set if you have every other mount bolted up right, this one you can eyeball easily