omg B16 Idle Problem

RonJ

Banned
If you haven't given up yet, I could tell you how to test the ECT and TPS, if you have a multimeter.
 


RonJ

Banned
Do you have a digital multimeter or can you borrow one? My Harbor Freight Tool store often has them on sale for $4.
 


RonJ

Banned
Test #1:
When the engine is fully warmed up, unplug the 2-wire connector for the ECT sensor below the distributor and then measure resistance across the two terminals of the sensor itself. It should read 200-400 Ohms.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
Test #1:
When the engine is fully warmed up, unplug the 2-wire connector for the ECT sensor below the distributor and then measure resistance across the two terminals of the sensor itself. It should read 200-400 Ohms.
Click to expand...
I googled it while you were gone for the tps and i read it needs to be at a steady .50v mine was at .51 then it drops to .47 the comes back up to .51 and would bounce between those and that was with the car set to the on Position and that's with the connector plugged to the tps and i squeezed my prong into the red wire. the plug its self reads .50 steady with no fluctuation. When unplugged from the tps. I got my throttle body off right now so if you want me to test anything let me know while they are easy to get to.
 

RonJ

Banned
What are the wire colors in your TPS connector? The TPS connector has three wires (right, middle, left) -- (1) 5 reference volts from ECU, (2) input signal to ECU, (3) ground to ECU. Which wire did you measure voltage from with the TPS connected versus disconnected?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
What are the wire colors in your TPS connector? The TPS connector has three wires (right, middle, left) -- (1) 5 reference volts from ECU, (2) input signal to ECU, (3) ground to ECU. Which wire did you measure voltage from with the TPS connected versus disconnected?
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I put the red part of the multimeter on the middle one with the black side grounded. Also it looks like an aftermarket tps already... The name on it is blox.
 

RonJ

Banned
1991civicb16 said:
I put the red part of the multimeter on the middle one with the black side grounded.
Click to expand...
That's the input wire and should only have voltage with the TPS connector plugged in. What are the colors of the three wires in the TPS connector? When the TPS is unplugged and the key is in ON(II), what voltage to body ground do you measure at each of the three wires tested individually?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
That's the input wire and should only have voltage with the TPS connector plugged in. What are the colors of the three wires in the TPS connector? When the TPS is unplugged and the key is in ON(II), what voltage to body ground do you measure at each of the three wires tested individually?
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4.99 Tan Wire/ .39 Red/ .01 Green

And i was testing it last time with it connected to the tps i squeezed the positive into the connector, but this is with it unplugged and in the on position. Also just so its clarified this is the numbers for the connector that comes from ecu. not the sensor on the throttlebody
 

RonJ

Banned
1991civicb16 said:
I googled it while you were gone for the tps and i read it needs to be at a steady .50v mine was at .51 then it drops to .47 the comes back up to .51 and would bounce between those and that was with the car set to the on Position and that's with the connector plugged to the tps and i squeezed my prong into the red wire. the plug its self reads .50 steady with no fluctuation. When unplugged from the tps. I got my throttle body off right now so if you want me to test anything let me know while they are easy to get to.
Click to expand...
Are these (below) the actual wire colors in your TPS connector?



Do these voltage tests on the wires of the TPS connector with the key in ON(II):

TPS unplugged
1) Voltage between Yel/Wht and Grn/Wht

TPS plugged in
2) Voltage between Red/Blu and Grn/Wht

In addition to the voltage reading, also mention whether the reading is steady or variable.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
Are these (below) the actual wire colors in your TPS connector?



Do these voltage tests on the wires of the TPS connector with the key in ON(II):

TPS unplugged
1) Voltage between Yel/Wht and Grn/Wht

TPS Plugged in
2) Voltage between Red/Blu and Grn/Wht

In addition to the voltage reading, also mention whether the reading is steady or variable.
Click to expand...
Which do i put the ground and positive then?
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
Those readings look fine. The next step is to do the ECT test that I mentioned earlier in post #26.
Click to expand...
Ok so test the connector? or the sensor in the engine? also which color will be the ground wire.
 

RonJ

Banned
1991civicb16 said:
Ok so test the connector? or the sensor in the engine? also which color will be the ground wire.
Click to expand...
As I mentioned in post #26, the resistance test (Ohms) is done on the unplugged ECT sensor itself, not the connector. For this particular test, set the multimeter to read resistance/Ohms. It does not matter which terminal you probe with the + and - probes. Just touch one terminal with the + probe and the other terminal with the - probe. And the engine must be fully warmed up.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
As I mentioned in post #26, the resistance test (Ohms) is done on the unplugged ECT sensor itself, not the connector. For this particular test, set the multimeter to read resistance/Ohms. It does not matter which terminal you probe with the + and - probes. Just touch one terminal with the + probe and the other terminal with the - probe. And the engine must be fully warmed up.
Click to expand...
Ok, I will do it tomorrow bed time. thanks for help today, and will post tomorrow.
 

1991civicb16

Guest
RonJ said:
As I mentioned in post #26, the resistance test (Ohms) is done on the unplugged ECT sensor itself, not the connector. For this particular test, set the multimeter to read resistance/Ohms. It does not matter which terminal you probe with the + and - probes. Just touch one terminal with the + probe and the other terminal with the - probe. And the engine must be fully warmed up.
Click to expand...
Well i tested the connector i believe to be the ECT kinda below to the right of the distributor if u look straight at the distributor from the side. It has a blue wire and black wire going to it and it fluctuated kinda but the most steady reading i got was 168 for about 10 seconds it didnt like jump majorly would just change a digit. Also my collent temp gauge i notice takes forever to raise up i can even turn the heater on and it blows hot air before the gauge even moves? could that be why?
 
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