timing belt tips..

[all go no show]

Timing belt changes are a topic that is covered often, and its a pretty basic thing to do. Im pretty engine smart, but ive never done a timing belt and i want to be extra careful. Ive done my research, but i still have a few questions. I just finished reading an old honda-tuning article on changing the timing belt and it just sorta confused me.

In HT, they removed the spark plugs and took off the distributor cap to see which terminal they were on when setting the engine to TDC. I dont know why the hell they did that! The way i see it, since the distributor is in sync with the cam, if you use the marks on the cam gear, why the hell would you even touch the dizzy?? Second of all, im not 100% sure on how to get piston 1 to tdc.

I know its a pain in the ass, but i need some CONCRETE advice. Can someone walk me through their firsthand experience of changing the belt?

 

[Steven.]

ok what i do

you have a SOHC right?
easy

remove all spark plugs, jack the car, put on jack stands, rotate engine with wratchet till "up" is up, remove crank pulley, on the timign gear(lower), ther eis a line, and there is a arrow on the oil pump, line them up(ignore the Up on the cam gear), now the lower end is at TDC, get a jack and wood, put on oil pan so you can remove the driver motor mount(jack enough to hold the engine, dont need to lift the engine), loosen timing belt tensioner, remove belt, turn cam gear to "up" is up, just remember to make sure the lower end stays at TDC and the cam stays with "up", up.

be sure to make sure the belt is tight, you dont want to have the belt skip a tooth when started, when you get it all back together, bump it around or rotate the enigne a couple times before starting to make sure belt is on and tight. good thing its not on a DOHC

 

[all go no show]

Ok that sounds good, one other thing. How do you keep the engine still while removing the crank pulley? I dont really want to take off the starter to wedge a screwdriver in there.

 

[Steven.]

i use a impact gun, but in the pully theres holes find something durable enough to hold it while yo uuse a braker bar. i know my spelling sucks ballz

 

[all go no show]

i use a impact gun, but in the pully theres holes find something durable enough to hold it while yo uuse a braker bar. i know my spelling sucks ballz

just went out to the garage to practice on one of my old junk motors.
Well, the holes in the pulley dont go through, so i still cant think of how to brace it.
Also, the crank sprocket didnt have any marks on it. I found the arrow, but no mark on the sprocket!?!?!?!

Also, when the crank is inline with the arrow on the timing pump. Dosnt that mean that piston 1 is then at TDC?? If it is that simple, why does anyone bother putting it to tdc before?

 

[Steven.]

see the line?

when the line on that sprocket is inline with the arrow, cylinder 1(closest to the timing belt) is at TDC

 

[all go no show]

emergency question!!!!
Its hard to see in there, but the marks on the cam gear dont appear to be exactly level, but isnt it sorta hard to mess that up because of the spring pressure, the cam has a tendency to land in only 4 positions, one every 90 degrees. So when it stops there, is it in the correct spot?? Because like i said, it doesnt look EXACTLY level.

 

[Steven.]

your welcome, need any other pics, ihave teh full manual, for teh SOHC and DOHC ZC.

 

[WalterRonny]

ok what i do

you have a SOHC right?
easy

remove all spark plugs, jack the car, put on jack stands, rotate engine with wratchet till "up" is up, remove crank pulley, on the timign gear(lower), ther eis a line, and there is a arrow on the oil pump, line them up(ignore the Up on the cam gear), now the lower end is at TDC, get a jack and wood, put on oil pan so you can remove the driver motor mount(jack enough to hold the engine, dont need to lift the engine), loosen timing belt tensioner, remove belt, turn cam gear to "up" is up, just remember to make sure the lower end stays at TDC and the cam stays with "up", up.

be sure to make sure the belt is tight, you dont want to have the belt skip a tooth when started, when you get it all back together, bump it around or rotate the enigne a couple times before starting to make sure belt is on and tight. good thing its not on a DOHC

i did similar than you but i did not remove al spark plug (WFT?) , yes spark pluf wires and cover valve of course..

timing belt must to be tight not too much ..and i used a impact gun .

im talking about change timing belt to a B16

a suggestion : read manual service of your engine

 

[Steven.]

removal of the plugs makes it easer to rotate the engine, your not fighting compression

 

[WalterRonny]

well..it's not stronge to rotate engine but yes..that can help you to rotate easiest..

other thing is. if you are trying to remove bolt crank and the engine gets rotates.. you need to block flywheel.. i did it cuz i removed bolt crank w/ impact gun..

good luck!