I would worry more about power output than boost levels. 8psi with a T3 50/60 trim is NOT the same as 8psi with a T3/60-1.
I would say (and this is somewhat up for debate) that a stock LS motor will hold together in one piece to between 250 and 270whp, which will probably mean between 235 and 260 ft/lbs of torque, assuming stock cams. This also assumes excellent tuning - no FMU bullshit, no crazy ass ignition tables. The LS comes from the factory with 9.2:1 compression, which is a great compression ratio for boost. Rods are good for 275-300 whp, but the pistons are still cast. If you are willing to be nice to your LS motor and treat it well, you should be good to go. A set of rods+pistons+new rings (OEM rings = best IMHO) and a 2/3bar MAP sensor is really all you need to hit 300-350whp, assuming your turbo and intercooler can keep up. Add some headwork and cams and look out.
I would not do anything to the head unless you build the bottom end AND get cams.
Things that would probably be wise to replace if you have the motor apart regardless of whether you build it or not:
#1 - ARP/AEBS headstuds
#2 - new oil pump
#3 - new water pump (use B20/GSR - more output), timing belt (match water pump - B20 belt if you use better water pump)
#4 - new keepers in head (I've seen a LOT of LS motors drop valves from retainer failure, particularly higher mileage motors)
#5 - rings (if your compression is below 185 across the board or isn't within 5% spread)
#6 - clutch. LS motors make horsepower by making shitloads of torque. Torque is harder on your clutch (and transmission) than higher revving horsepower. Remember this, and get a clutch that will hold more torque than you expect to make - you'll probably need it.
Hope that helps.
-Dave
Edit: said retainers, meant keepers. The two half-moon clips that hold the retainers on the valves.