You can solve the problem without codes. Doing the troubleshooting that I have already mentioned will change your blindness to vision.im just giving myself options cuz without it telling me any codes im goin in blind and runnin outa options
^^^i tried getting CEL codes the engine light is not on and when i try to use a jumper and count the CEL flashes nothing happens. all the lights stay on and the SRS light flashes once and stays on. why does this not work??
alright so it tried pulling the codes again with the method you gave me. no go... what happens iswhen the jumper wire is in the connector and you turn the key to the on position all the lights come on, the CEL stays on and does not flash however the SRS light flashes once and stays on and then nothing else happens. does this mean anything?
This means that you don't have any CEL codes stored in the ECU. Jumping the service connector is also used to retrieve trouble codes from the SRS system. You also don't have any SRS codes, though this is irrelevant to your problem.
i dont have any starter fluid but we kept priming the fuel pump for a couple minutes and the car started for about 30-45 seconds, we thought we had it then it died again and would only stay started for a second or two after that.guys got any other idea's? tomorrow im cleaning out the IACV to see if that helps a bit.
The IACV is a highly unlikely cause of your problem. I recommend to check the mechanical timing to see whether the timing belt skipped a tooth. To do this, remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover and then use a breaker bar and socket to turn the crank pulley only COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the cam pulley is perfectly positioned at TDC1. Now look down at the crank pulley to see whether it too is positioned perfectly at TDC1. If not, the timing belt slipped.
The diagram below shows the cam and crank both positioned at TDC1.
Was spark bright white rather than weak orange or dark blue?it has good spark
ive done this i just position an open fuel line in a snapple bottle and only turn it over for a second.... obviously with the bottle mounted in a stable way... in fact.. lol i used to take gas out o fmy car for my lawn mower doing this..^^^
are you sure the fuel pump actually primes when key is turned to ON? if so then fuel filter is the next check. followed by fuel rail/ injectors. personally having dealt with similiar problems it sounds like a fuel pump. UNSAFE way to test would be loosen a fuel line and turn the key to on if it sprays fuel evrywhere then you have a good pump if not problem solved
You can hear when the pump turns on. Best way to check and hear is to remove the back seat. Turn the car on the ACC and hear if the pump purges ON. If it does do that its faulty.^^^
are you sure the fuel pump actually primes when key is turned to ON? if so then fuel filter is the next check. followed by fuel rail/ injectors. personally having dealt with similiar problems it sounds like a fuel pump. UNSAFE way to test would be loosen a fuel line and turn the key to on if it sprays fuel evrywhere then you have a good pump if not problem solved
the thing that is BETTER about checking REAL fuel presence under the hood is that it will TELL you yes the pump IS running and fuel IS reaching the motor.. you have just eliminated a TON of BS work checking lines looking for potential kinks or cracks losses in fuel.. you KNOW gas is getting to the motor...You can hear when the pump turns on. Best way to check and hear is to remove the back seat. Turn the car on the ACC and hear if the pump purges ON. If it does do that its faulty.
If the mechanical timing is dead on, then the timing belt did not slip.thanks man got it!!! and if that all lines up and i can keep it runnin on starter fluid??
i did not see your other post. Thats another way to check it. Eventually if the pump is bad he is going to have to remove the rear seat.the thing that is BETTER about checking REAL fuel presence under the hood is that it will TELL you yes the pump IS running and fuel IS reaching the motor.. you have just eliminated a TON of BS work checking lines looking for potential kinks or cracks losses in fuel.. you KNOW gas is getting to the motor...