car engine shuts off after stoping sometimes

whoopnip

Some Delicious Guy
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itz topped up so i guess i gotta drain?...and with the heater knob tuirned all the way to heat... should i put the ignition to accessories (II) atleast BEFORE i go ahead and do the bleeding?
Reread the procedure. You do not need to drain the coolant for the bleed procedure. The motor will be running during the procedure.Also, make sure you start the procedure with a cold engine and then let it warm up all the way0 during the procedure.
 

Mugenn_civic

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kk did it yesterday, drove it, drove it again today and PROBLEM SOLVED=O
once again super-ron strikes again:cool:
 


lp3noy

New Member
5+ Year Member
I just started to have this similar problem last night but in my case, the car shuts off when i stop or even when i put the car in neutral(it kinda just boggs out and studders) starts up fine after that. ignition switch seems fine. its a d16y8 turbo. But when i drive it seems like i lost power like it really weak. im only boostin 6lbs daily. i dont have any vacuum leaks, plus the weird thing is, i always use shell 93 oct. then i just recently put bp 93oct on sunday and then this started to happen. Please help it sucks starting up my car everytime i stop!

p.s. - when i come up to a stop in neutral and rev the car to keep up the rpms a bit, then it doesnt stall. only when i put it in neutral comin to a stop the rpms just drop
 

mahalo

formerly egninesallday
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this is the official my car is broken thread lol.
Ron's havbing a hay day in here
 


whoopnip

Some Delicious Guy
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
I just started to have this similar problem last night but in my case, the car shuts off when i stop or even when i put the car in neutral(it kinda just boggs out and studders) starts up fine after that. ignition switch seems fine. its a d16y8 turbo. But when i drive it seems like i lost power like it really weak. im only boostin 6lbs daily. i dont have any vacuum leaks, plus the weird thing is, i always use shell 93 oct. then i just recently put bp 93oct on sunday and then this started to happen. Please help it sucks starting up my car everytime i stop!

p.s. - when i come up to a stop in neutral and rev the car to keep up the rpms a bit, then it doesnt stall. only when i put it in neutral comin to a stop the rpms just drop
Start by bleeding the cooling system. The procedure has been detailed earlier in the thread.

You should also clean the IACV. If the problem still persists after both of those, consider adjusting the idle with the screw on the top of the throttle body.
 

lucas29k

New Member
5+ Year Member
lol i havent been on this site in forever but thought it was funny this thread was at top cuz i started it. was sick of all the problems my civic had and how it was slow and would only get fast with a couple grand put in it so i bought a 1990 300zx twin turbo and love it. just wish it had more than 2 seats :( by the way i never got the problem stopped with the civic lol had no idea what the deal was
 

Mugenn_civic

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10+ Year Member
Start by bleeding the cooling system. The procedure has been detailed earlier in the thread.

You should also clean the IACV. If the problem still persists after both of those, consider adjusting the idle with the screw on the top of the throttle body.
the cooling system flush was to solve the swooshing sound of water (it was an air bubble in the coolant)...just saying... other than that bro u mite need a new throttle body, or barrel/map/maf sensor... look into it thats what i needed hope it helps.
 

whoopnip

Some Delicious Guy
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
the cooling system flush was to solve the swooshing sound of water (it was an air bubble in the coolant)...just saying... other than that bro u mite need a new throttle body, or barrel/map/maf sensor... look into it thats what i needed hope it helps.
Air bubbles in the cooling system can cause idling issues. The bubbles pass by the engine temperature sensor and cause it to think that the car is switching between cold and warm, so it adjusts the idle to compensate. It's usually more associated with fluctuating than low idles, but it's a quick, simple, and free procedure, so I recommend it at the beginning of all idle issues.
 


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