i'm stumped.....any clues?

Finnish~Racer

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Ask them whether they'll let you borrow an OBDII scan tool to pull your CEL codes at home. Otherwise, you need to post a video of the blinking CEL (OBDI method).
i'll have to ask tuesday if i can, since i dont have a running car. but i'll try my but off to try and host these videos.
 


RonJ

Banned
also i can press on the timing belt and it gives, its not taught very much.

Only turn the crankshaft pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE so that the belt maintains proper tension.

the camshaft pulley is at total dead center, with the UP word directly vertical.

There are additional alignment marks to ensure setting perfectly to TDC1. See diagram.
 


RonJ

Banned
SHOOT?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! what if i went clockwise??!?!?
Don't worry. Just rotate the crank pulley counterclockwise a few revolutions and then recheck the cam and crank timing, as well as the belt tension. If you overshoot the TDC1 mark, don't turn the crank clockwise. Continue counterclockwise until you again just reach TDC1.
 

Finnish~Racer

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phew ok. i'm back at campus from break and i have my cable, so i can connect my smartphone to my desktop. ;) video on the way by tonight.
 

Finnish~Racer

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ok ron i'm throwing 3 videos up
one of me not finding TDC1, cuz theres no notches at all, one of the engine idleing after 3 tries at starting it, and then one of the complete cycle of CEL codes.
 

Finnish~Racer

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well dinner at taco bell w my roommate, and a trek to kmart to do nothing but make fun of horrible no-name brands shoes has thrown off my free time slighty. and i can't find the videos in my files but i'm working on it.

ron i noticed another thread that you posted something about resetting your ecu, how can i go about doing that to drop some CEL codes that are not significant?
 

RonJ

Banned
Remove the 7.5A Back Up fuse in the hood fuse box for several minutes and then reinsert.
 

Finnish~Racer

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awesome, i'll do that as soon as i go home at 3 tomorrow before work and class.
i got the videos working so i'm loading then now :D
 

Finnish~Racer

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ok, after watching these i've noticed that audio is quite horrendous, but thats what you get from a tiny pin prick of a microphone opening.

and you need to simply open the dialog box to run the videos....no viruses or rick-rolls to inappropriate crap.


*just so you guys know* :D
 

RonJ

Banned
I also read code 14 and code 38 from your video. As code 38 is not a real code, I am concerned that your ECU may be bad.

Regarding the mechanical timing, two still photos are needed. When the cam is set at TDC1, we need one picture clearly showing the TDC1 marks on the cam gear and one picture looking straight down from the cam gear at the crank pulley. The crank white TDC1 mark is etched on the outer edge of the crank pulley and should be aligned with the pointer. See post #22 for more details. The belt tension seems fine.
 

Finnish~Racer

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ok i'll get those both tomorrow.

i hope the ecu isn't bad.....damn, it's like a $400 ecu, 3-stage d15b ecus rape the wallet!
but i'll reset it and then see if the CEL comes up....

i'm so glad i'm not blindly mad and was reading something way off. knew it was a 38! :D

thanks ron, i'm off for the night, but the civic does run after the 3rd turnover, and it drives......

i'm pretty sure it needs retimed.....which will be a new thing for me. =)
 

RonJ

Banned
There's a post here, where a guy seems to believe that code 38 from a P2J ECU signifies a VTEC problem. I can't say whether he's right or wrong.

Post pictures of the cam and crank as mentioned when you have time. If the mechanical timing is fine, then hook up a timing gun and check the ignition timing.

Regarding code 14, do you have a low, high, or fluctuating idle? Is the IACV plugged in and wired correctly?

Can you also summarize all of the current problems that the engine has?
 

Finnish~Racer

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yes, the poster is definetly correct. the vtec acctuator solenoid is dual on the 3-stage d15b, and the wires are cut when removal of the engine occurs in japan, pre-shipment.
it was then installed without being properly wired, so the CEL code for a vtec problem makes total sense. =)

i'll get those cam pics and crank pics around 3. and then post them up asap.

Code 14 was address earlier before i videoed the engine, etc. I took off the IAVC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner as you directed in your sig's thread. after i let it air dry for almost 2 hours while i took some family pictures.
then i reinstalled it and wam, bam, boom.....all done. =) now when i removed the IAVC, no coolant leaked. also one of the lines is blocked, since i'm using a FITV tb, but with a block-off plate over the FITV port.

a summary of problems:
car attempts to turn over when initially attempted, after around 3 tries, while "giving it gas", the engine sputters to life with a rough idle. the idle is at the normal levels...

the car has no other issues other than the possible untiming, as well as the coolant leak from the inner side of the thermostat housing....

^^about that, how should i address it? remove the IM and all other vacuum lines and then check to see where the leak is coming from?


(also that article is amazing! A21 is the glory number, thats the slot on my ecu where i need to run the second stage wire to clear the CEL.
 

RonJ

Banned
If you reset the ECU, does code 14 return after running the engine?

The difficulty starting the engine could possibly be due to the fact that the FITV is blocked off. The specific function of the FITV is to increase air intake on cold starts. You should consider removing the FITV block off plate.

Post some clear pictures showing where you see coolant leaking from.
 

Finnish~Racer

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the FITV has been off since almost after i bought the civic. i swapped the stock IM out for a y7 im ported and polished to around 65-70mm. it ran PERFECT!!!! i know it has nothing to do with the blockoff plate.
 


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