***Knowledge Test***
- Thread starter RonJ
- Start date
RonJ
Banned
Correct Chris. You were previously incorrectly assigning the crucial function of the crank sensor to the coil and ICM.
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You are a double award winner on this question.
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I'll now take a break again from the thread with the hope that others will now step up with new questions.
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Yup. Though he didn't specify the year because it's been the same on any Civic for quire a while, I'm assuming.
Congrats
Now we need another question.
yea every single cam civic from 88-2000 had the same parts in the distributor. although not always the same part numbers... but they had the same function... the CPS sensor has always been in the distributor on a single cam...Yup. Though he didn't specify the year because it's been the same on any Civic for quire a while, I'm assuming.
Congrats
Now we need another question.
the DOHC ZC is the only engine that has an external CPS.
and it was only the OBD0 engine at that..
yea distributor located CPS units involve changing the whole thing... they are not servicable
RonJ
Banned
If you know what you are doing and have access to the parts, one can replace distributor sensors. They are simple resistors.
its cheaper to fix it yourself yes... but... its hit or miss... if you dont have the right parts... which i dont think the CPS can be ordered... but you also need the proper tools to get it apart that far...
dude this is just hondas.... lol .... i can get into some harder questions not involving hondas if youd like... lol
i got one now im stumped on... but it involves a 1990 dodge van... ill post it if you guys want to give it a shot..
but sometimes it sucks that you know there is a problem... and you know what the problem is... but you are hesitant to replace it till you do your tests... then your tests lead you nowhere... so your stuck...
then you decide you just change the part you suspected.. and it works like a charm. 2 days of testing that didnt need to be done if you just followed your gut from the beggining... thats what gets me
then you decide you just change the part you suspected.. and it works like a charm. 2 days of testing that didnt need to be done if you just followed your gut from the beggining... thats what gets me
RonJ
Banned
Never underestimate the power of testing. I think more problems are missed because the testing is not done correctly.
ok
the ride... 1990 dodge B150 with a 3.9L V6... the B150 is the 1/2 ton dodge ram van... so its not a minivan.. this is the fullsize deal..
the problem... NO CHARGE....
parts replaced.. alternator... twice.. in one day. both alternators tested good from the parts store they came from. we hook them up.. and no charge still
battery has not been changed becasue if it starts.. it runs on the battery... a bad battery would not cause it to not start with a battery charger. it just wont hold a charge..
we have done some preliminary tests... we first diagnosed to be the alternator because with the car running... if we unhook the battery... it will die immediatly.. in MAJORITY of cars these days... this immediatly means that the alternator is bad.. or there is a bad connection..
we unhook the MAIN BATTERY wire coming off the alternator and can start the engine... it will run off the battery alone.. and the post on the alternator will show 11V and not the usual 14-17 volts. even though it shows 15V in the store when tested.
this alternator has an external voltage regulator that forums say is in the PCM... we have not tested that..
question is... with a new alternator.. why is there still no charge? keep in mind that you can still operate a car without a battery. although this pattery is hooked up to the batttery charger all the time to maintain lvls so we can start it. after that its turned off and the car is running solely on the battery. when checking voltage on the battery it reads 11.2V while the car is running.
the ride... 1990 dodge B150 with a 3.9L V6... the B150 is the 1/2 ton dodge ram van... so its not a minivan.. this is the fullsize deal..
the problem... NO CHARGE....
parts replaced.. alternator... twice.. in one day. both alternators tested good from the parts store they came from. we hook them up.. and no charge still
battery has not been changed becasue if it starts.. it runs on the battery... a bad battery would not cause it to not start with a battery charger. it just wont hold a charge..
we have done some preliminary tests... we first diagnosed to be the alternator because with the car running... if we unhook the battery... it will die immediatly.. in MAJORITY of cars these days... this immediatly means that the alternator is bad.. or there is a bad connection..
we unhook the MAIN BATTERY wire coming off the alternator and can start the engine... it will run off the battery alone.. and the post on the alternator will show 11V and not the usual 14-17 volts. even though it shows 15V in the store when tested.
this alternator has an external voltage regulator that forums say is in the PCM... we have not tested that..
question is... with a new alternator.. why is there still no charge? keep in mind that you can still operate a car without a battery. although this pattery is hooked up to the batttery charger all the time to maintain lvls so we can start it. after that its turned off and the car is running solely on the battery. when checking voltage on the battery it reads 11.2V while the car is running.