8k mile b16a2 burns oil, suggestions?

[00siboy]

Rebuilt b16 to factory specs, 8k miles on it so far. I did a proper break in process. I had to re-do a few gaskets/seals because they were leaking oil externally but its all dry now. No color to the exhaust smoke, but exhaust does leave little black specs all over my rear bumper.

My major problem now is that its burning oil worse than before the rebuild (typical 150k mile abused b16). It loses a few qts every 1k miles, and the oil turns black really fast. I am going to replace the PCV valve with the OE part (current one is new but aftermarket, looks kinda cheap) and do a compression test tomorrow, just to get some easy things out of the way.

The only reason I am posting is to see if anyone has had, or heard of, the same exact problem and has a solution. Please do not post something that is a complete guess. I will update tomorrow afternoon/evening.

 

[ReedMann]

Compression test and PCV sound like a good start. I spoke to a friend who is very knowledgeable about Hondas when I first swapped in a B16 and he gave me some advice.

1. Don't use aftermarket PCVs. Honda calibrates them specifically for the engine and the aftermarket is probably not calibrated as precisely.

2. Invest in a catch can setup. Honda's system works, but he said that a catch can setup is better than routing it to that box on the back of the block.

 

[98ej8]

Honda's factory PCVs are supposed to last as long as the engine anyway, given that oil was changed regularly.

 

[00siboy]

Compression test and PCV sound like a good start. I spoke to a friend who is very knowledgeable about Hondas when I first swapped in a B16 and he gave me some advice.

1. Don't use aftermarket PCVs. Honda calibrates them specifically for the engine and the aftermarket is probably not calibrated as precisely.

2. Invest in a catch can setup. Honda's system works, but he said that a catch can setup is better than routing it to that box on the back of the block.

Thanks. I use aftermarket (NAPA) pcv valves at work and never had a problem, but the one I got for my civic I think was a last minute Advance Auto part or something that I was originally going to replace when i got a chance, but of course never did.

Is Honda's stock ventilation system really that bad? I had never even heard of this problem until now. But I guess a catch can setup isn't any big deal to install so I might try it. Updates later today when its warmer outside.

 

[ReedMann]

Thanks. I use aftermarket (NAPA) pcv valves at work and never had a problem, but the one I got for my civic I think was a last minute Advance Auto part or something that I was originally going to replace when i got a chance, but of course never did.

Is Honda's stock ventilation system really that bad? I had never even heard of this problem until now. But I guess a catch can setup isn't any big deal to install so I might try it. Updates later today when its warmer outside.

Yeah, I would definitely replace that PCV then.

As far as the ventilation system goes, I don't think its necessarily "bad" per se. Its just that if you are having issues or building it for performance, a catch can is better than the OEM system.

 

[cgpEJ6]

Honda's factory PCVs are supposed to last as long as the engine anyway, given that oil was changed regularly.

says who?

 

[00siboy]

UPDATE:
Compression test was 180psi across all 4. Spark plugs had lots of white crusty buildup on all 4 as well, which I always thought meant lean condition or oil consumption. Keep in mind these plugs were only used for 8k miles. I have only been using 91 octane gas or above ever since the rebuild, and mobil-1 synthetic 5w-30.

I looked at my receipt from the machine shop that rebuilt my engine. Looks like everything was replaced (rings, valve stem seals, etc.) except valve guides. If it is the original valve guides, could it cause problems so fast? I know that worn valve guides cause the valve stem to wear out the valve stem seals, correct?

It's crazy that I'm having this problem on a fresh rebuild, I am trying to narrow down some things before calling the machine shop because I (and my work that would sub stuff out to them) have since stopped going to them for quality control reasons (go figure). I am not against doing a catch can setup, but I am not convinced that this is "normal" or that the pcv system is the problem, I am thinking it is more of an internal problem. Pics of plugs will be posted tomorrow if needed.

 

[ReedMann]

UPDATE:
Compression test was 180psi across all 4. Spark plugs had lots of white crusty buildup on all 4 as well, which I always thought meant lean condition or oil consumption. Keep in mind these plugs were only used for 8k miles. I have only been using 91 octane gas or above ever since the rebuild, and mobil-1 synthetic 5w-30.

I looked at my receipt from the machine shop that rebuilt my engine. Looks like everything was replaced (rings, valve stem seals, etc.) except valve guides. If it is the original valve guides, could it cause problems so fast? I know that worn valve guides cause the valve stem to wear out the valve stem seals, correct?

It's crazy that I'm having this problem on a fresh rebuild, I am trying to narrow down some things before calling the machine shop because I (and my work that would sub stuff out to them) have since stopped going to them for quality control reasons (go figure). I am not against doing a catch can setup, but I am not convinced that this is "normal" or that the pcv system is the problem, I am thinking it is more of an internal problem. Pics of plugs will be posted tomorrow if needed.

What kind of quality control issues was your company having from them? Were they consistent or just a one time occurrence?

 

[00siboy]

^^More like just having minor issues that turned into big issues because they didn't want to take responsibility. E.g. cam cap bolts not being tightened, poorly installed cam/crank seals, etc. Nothing catastrophic but it just wears on you when there is not improvement.

 

[mymmeryloss]

Umm y didnt they change the guides? Yes if they are etched or anything the can marr the valves...

 

[Blayze2010]

Sounds like the machine shop cut some corners on you.

 

[00siboy]

I'm gonna call on Monday, they are closed on weekends. It's odd because they replaced everything else, why skip the valve guides? It's not like they charged me for it and didn't do it, they just simply didn't do it. If thats what it ends up being then hopefully I'll be getting some free work done, if I feel like taking ti back to them that is.

 

[00siboy]

UPDATE: Finally got around to taking the IM off. I wanted to see if it was full of oil from having the wrong PCV valve. Sure enough the runners and the intake ports in the head has fresh oil in them. I cleaned it all up, put in an OEM pcv valve, and did an oil change. I will keep an eye on the level and take it easy on the engine for a while, then report back. Might have jumped the gun on blaming the machine shop lol but only time will tell.

 

[ReedMann]

Keep us updated. Hopefully that will solve your issue.

 

[99ebpem1]

Im interested in knowing the issue as well.
My si now has 212000 miles on it (not been rebuilt yet) and has been burning 3-4 quarts per 3k miles. And i also get a black sooty film on the back of my car from exhaust.

Good luck.

Alos, where did you have your rebuild done? Because i seen that you are from Indiana.
I live an hour south of louisville and cant get any shops around here to give me a quote on a stock rebuild. Called 4 including honda. They all say they will call me with a price but never do.

 

[00siboy]

So not long after my last update I started experiencing another problem. The engine started to cut out real bad erratically at anything higher than 4.5-5k rpm. No lights, codes, etc. Exhaust is still sooty and black as well, and I have burned a quart of oil already since last update (not even 1k miles).

I pulled all the spark plugs and they all had lots of oil on the threads, not the upper part like leaking tube seals, just the cylinder side of the washer, meaning that there is lots of oil getting into the cylinders. So at this point I am assuming that there is actually something wrong with the internals and I am going to actually call the machine shop this time and see what they think it could be. Just thought I would update you guys, I'm pretty frustrated lol.

 

[RonJ]

A faulty PCV system is not going to cause the engine to burn oil.

Given the good cylinder compression numbers, the oil loss is almost surely due to bad valve stem seals/guides.

 

[wellbuilt]

I helped my bro find out why his car was burning so much oil turned out he never changed the air filter. So the car was getting air/oil from the pcv and the whole intake manifold was sludged up with oil and that caused the head to fail . The machine shopsaid the valve seals are bad and it cost 280 to rebuild

 

[RonJ]

...his car was burning so much oil turned out he never changed the air filter. So the car was getting air/oil from the pcv and the whole intake manifold was sludged up with oil and that caused the head to fail .

If you know how the PCV system works, this^ just doesn't make sense.

 

[00siboy]

Ya Ron I know the PCV didn't make sense but its was a super cheap attempt, and I didn't want to pull the head of course. The intake runners were covered in oil tho, would valve stem seals cause oil to collect in the IM? I think I'm back to thinking bad valve guides unfortunately, I'm going to call the shop and see if they even checked them.