I have a1995 dx coupe 5speed that i swapped a z6 w/p28 into and replaced a bunch of maintenance parts and as it sits i drive it everyday and it starts everytime and once it reaches operating temp. and start to brake for a stop it shuts off. as in everything shuts off and battery light comes on obviously because the key is on and the car isnt. it has new battery,new starter,new alternator,new iat sensor cant figure it out. please help.
d16z6 swap keeps dieing???
- Thread starter 90dohcD
- Start date
Iacv
I had an issue with this when i first swapped the motor in and a friend had a good one and i put that one on i would say thats an option and im in the process of cleaning it out and puttin it back ill update once thats done any other things that might cause this. i have two codes the vtec pressure switch(needs to be wired up) and code 41 which is weird and ill have to get a new o2 sensor for that.
Could of been putting out to much fuel burned up o2 I tried cleaning mine ended up buying a new one. In my case I have a turboed built motor though with s300 and I had to raise a setting so it would not die on me. Just because it looks clean does not mean it is fully functional. Hope you get it figured out
Update: it only shuts off after warmed up and i push the clutch in longer then just to shift. brakes do nothing to amperage and it is only when clutch pedal is engaged. cleaned the iacv off and reinstalled it and still does it. i need to get that o2 sensor because ive never gotten a code 41 before and never had this type of thing happen to me.
I JUST had the same issue...
Take out your coil in the distributor, ohm test it, then heat it up with a heat gun and re test it... bet you it fails.
Internal fault in the coil due to heat expansion.
They should run you about $75-90 and it's 7 screws to replace.
does your idle drop and the car runs a little rough when hot?
step on the gas and get a slight hesitation?
Then you bring it to a stop and boom it dies?
Take out your coil in the distributor, ohm test it, then heat it up with a heat gun and re test it... bet you it fails.
Internal fault in the coil due to heat expansion.
They should run you about $75-90 and it's 7 screws to replace.
does your idle drop and the car runs a little rough when hot?
step on the gas and get a slight hesitation?
Then you bring it to a stop and boom it dies?
It actually only dies when at operating temp. and i push the clutch into stop. im almost certain i need a new iacv because im thinkin the light shutter when coming to a stop and now that it dies is idle related if its too low the car is just dieing. also what does it mean when the car dies at idle when you unplug the iacv? i new it was suppose to effect it but not die lol.
Ok guys this is tickin me off! Nothing is working, i have a cel for the vtec pressure switch but thats the only code and i removed and cleaned iacv, i tried adjusting the idle screw via the process i found on Google lolwith disconnecting the battery removing the back up fuse and unplugging the iacv all this while it is at operating temp. and also the car dies immediately when i unplug the iacv when warm as well and still nothing seems to be helping. the idle screw is tightened all the way down and no change, i tried plugging the top hole inside the tb and it stutters immediately and dies, i plug the bottom hole inside the tb and i feel light suction but no idle change. i have new plugs/wires and everything seems to be working properl. i drive it everyday and it drives normal when cold but once it warms up it starts dieing at stoplights everytime.
only ideas is obviously buy a new iacv and see if it helps, remove and clean and reset fitv, maybe get a new p28?????? IDK anymore.
and to obracer12 im gonna have to check tjat out becauase also i just now as i type this see my dizzy is missing on of the outer screws and im not sure how long its been that way so i.may be dealing with your exact issue with the dizzy.
only ideas is obviously buy a new iacv and see if it helps, remove and clean and reset fitv, maybe get a new p28?????? IDK anymore.
and to obracer12 im gonna have to check tjat out becauase also i just now as i type this see my dizzy is missing on of the outer screws and im not sure how long its been that way so i.may be dealing with your exact issue with the dizzy.
I cannot seem to figure out how to get my idle up. all the symptoms of the way the motor runs when warm says low idle and nothing is working. the car dies immediately when iacv is unplugged at operating temp. and car will not stay running without it. when i plug it back in you can hear it open up again. The fitv was pretty clean and readjusted anyways. everything cleaned and put back exactly. im not at a point right now that i can just go buy everything and hope something works, i need to fix this asap though lol. The motor ran fine for 8 months then this so idk. i still have to get a new cap/rotor/coil and see if thats my issue but has anyone encountered any other causes of my low idle crap.
also the car dieing immediately upon removal of iacv makes it difficult to adjust the idle screw properly. does this just sound like a bad iacv??(audible hum and click when plugged in) im sorry for the reposts i just am goin crazy being a poor kid and having BS issues lol any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
also the car dieing immediately upon removal of iacv makes it difficult to adjust the idle screw properly. does this just sound like a bad iacv??(audible hum and click when plugged in) im sorry for the reposts i just am goin crazy being a poor kid and having BS issues lol any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
I appreciate the diagram i have that saved on my phone already lol, but the car will not idle period when the iacv is unplugged, its starts with it unplugged but as it states to hold the rpms up and slowly release so it will idle but it never does it just dies everytime. thats why im leaning towards just a bad iacv. But the point of the dizzy came up and it described what my car is doin so im at a loss. ive been fortunate to not have to replace many snesors if at all on the many hondas ive had so mechanically im good but electronically and sensor wise im basically handicapped lol.
Also when i first jumped the plug for my cel it gave me both codes for the pressure switch and. code 41 but when i messed with the o2 sensor(removed it to check it out then reinstalled it) the code 41 went away now i just have the pressure switch code. i even replaced that with another pressure switch and still have that code im gonna check my pins on the ecu plugs to make sure there still good.
Also when i first jumped the plug for my cel it gave me both codes for the pressure switch and. code 41 but when i messed with the o2 sensor(removed it to check it out then reinstalled it) the code 41 went away now i just have the pressure switch code. i even replaced that with another pressure switch and still have that code im gonna check my pins on the ecu plugs to make sure there still good.
O i read it completely and 1 million others trying to work this out, i tried with a buddies junky tach but my tach wire is beat up and his tach is beat up. so yes i did read it and have tried and will try again if i can find someone with one i can.use in good shape. and i got you on cleaning the solenoid screenjust cant really do a whole lot in the dark.
RonJ
Banned
This^ doesn't mean that it's not closed down too far. Open/loosen the screw, get a tach, and follow the procedure in the diagram to the tee.
Yes sir ill do that asap. the only odd part is i have driven this car with this motor and everything set as it was for 8 months in winter and summer and through multiple states and only just now am experiencing issues with my idle so im just trying to grasp how the idle can just magically be too low one day and not be sensor related you know. just trying to figure everything out thats all.
RonJ
Banned
Despite the high frequency that you read about people replacing IACVs, it's not that common for them to fail. What's the Ohm reading across the two terminals of the unplugged IACV? If you supply power and ground from the battery to the IACV, does it click and does the window open and close when you touch and untouch the wires to the IACV terminals?
Ok ok id politely request no flaming lol buuuut i had a friend helping me clean stuff uptryin to narrow my issue down and lets just say i feel stupid for not checking his work. his only job was to clean my throttlebody and just put it back on aaaaand he kinda did that. i just was double checking stuff today and i noticed he cleaned the visible side when installed lol but not the inside.....sooooo i pulled it off again and cleaned it thoroughly and it was NASTY. I get it all back together and it has yet to die once warmed up, i still have to fittle with the idle a little bit but the mysterious stalling issue has seemed to be cured for now. i get a slight shutter on occasion still when coming to a stop with clutch pressed but no stalling im looking at new mounts because mine are straight beat and everything else seems legit.