first time oil changer lol
- Thread starter civicexcoupeman
- Start date
Just under 4 quarts of royal purple 5w30 with a fram oil filter is what I use...
Don't over tighten the piss out of the filter. My rule of thumb is tight until it makes contact with the mating surface, then 1 and 1/2 turns past that. I love when people do that, especially if the o-ring is dry, then it catches and pops out of the groove, sprays oil everywhere.
Also, I recommend starting with 3 quarts of oil, start the engine, let it idle up for a few seconds and as soon as the idle starts to dip shut it off, the filter should be full by then. Check the dipstick and add oil from there. It's pretty much fail safe.
Also, I recommend starting with 3 quarts of oil, start the engine, let it idle up for a few seconds and as soon as the idle starts to dip shut it off, the filter should be full by then. Check the dipstick and add oil from there. It's pretty much fail safe.
wtf.
just make sure you have proper equipment to be under your car or whatever, like jack stands and a good jack. then drain the oil, make sure car was running before you started any of this(and of course turn it off when you're going to start), also meaning dont do it when it's cold, you need the engine at normal temp, and replace the plug/washer. remove oil filter, then replace the filter of your choice, i use mobil1. make sure everything is on tight, and then add the oil to the engine, use quart bottles, it's so much easier to read the volume. add 3.5 quart bottles and run the car, take it for a drive somewhere, check for leaks afterwords. and then let the car sit until it's pretty cold to measure on the dipstick the oil level, because if you check it when it's hot, you'll get a false reading.
if you can afford it, get mobil 1
there, i hope that was some use to you.
just make sure you have proper equipment to be under your car or whatever, like jack stands and a good jack. then drain the oil, make sure car was running before you started any of this(and of course turn it off when you're going to start), also meaning dont do it when it's cold, you need the engine at normal temp, and replace the plug/washer. remove oil filter, then replace the filter of your choice, i use mobil1. make sure everything is on tight, and then add the oil to the engine, use quart bottles, it's so much easier to read the volume. add 3.5 quart bottles and run the car, take it for a drive somewhere, check for leaks afterwords. and then let the car sit until it's pretty cold to measure on the dipstick the oil level, because if you check it when it's hot, you'll get a false reading.
if you can afford it, get mobil 1
there, i hope that was some use to you.
My oil change goes like this:
Open Hood
remove oil cap from valve cover
jack up car slighty
wiggle under car
remove drain bolt and drain oil into plastic container
let drip until it doesn't really want to drip much at all.
replace crush washer and reinstall drain bolt
remove filter and clean filter location with brake cleaner
wiggle from under the car
get new filter and old filter and rub the gaskets on each other and lube new filter with oil
wipe filter install point to make sure metal is clean and install new filter
lower car
pull out oil *I use Q synthetic 5w30
get cone so you don't spill oil and pour 3.7 quarts (this is the perfect amount) of oil in the cone
replace oil cap and start car. listen to the valve then pull the dip stick oil level.
if you like what you see then you are all done. clean up your mess and go have a soda
I use:
3.7 quarts of Q 5 w 30 synthetic oil
K+N or Honda oil filter only (fram have problems with the gaskets sticking to the block)
New crush washer
Open Hood
remove oil cap from valve cover
jack up car slighty
wiggle under car
remove drain bolt and drain oil into plastic container
let drip until it doesn't really want to drip much at all.
replace crush washer and reinstall drain bolt
remove filter and clean filter location with brake cleaner
wiggle from under the car
get new filter and old filter and rub the gaskets on each other and lube new filter with oil
wipe filter install point to make sure metal is clean and install new filter
lower car
pull out oil *I use Q synthetic 5w30
get cone so you don't spill oil and pour 3.7 quarts (this is the perfect amount) of oil in the cone
replace oil cap and start car. listen to the valve then pull the dip stick oil level.
if you like what you see then you are all done. clean up your mess and go have a soda
I use:
3.7 quarts of Q 5 w 30 synthetic oil
K+N or Honda oil filter only (fram have problems with the gaskets sticking to the block)
New crush washer
honda oil filter is made by fram, and i prefer something other than k&n for my oil filter, read the efficiency levels, they're quite low compared to other filters
Also be carefull when you are draining the oil when the engine is hot, hot oil can scald you.
well i got a mad tight JDM Hamp honda oem oil filter before i made this thread. And i guess ima use that.
BTW mod go through and delete all usless posts k thx
BTW mod go through and delete all usless posts k thx
hamp is good, same with wix/napa gold and mobil1 m1-104/5 I have the m1-105. That was the origional oil filter before honda decided to switch to the smaller sizes, which dont actually boost oil pressure.
fram may produce the filter but it is to honda specs. which is different then a straight aftermarket filter. It's like the difference between yokohama's and mohawk tires. they are made by the same company but as we all know the yokos are a better quality product then the mohawks.
Conversation about hondas connection with fram filters:
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=614089&page_number=1
Conversation about hondas connection with fram filters:
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=614089&page_number=1
is there a reason why everyone hates fram? i think honda-tech has a thread about the actual composition of the oil filters. if i remember correctly, fram uses a cardboard component that should actually be plastic or polyurethane.
There are so many things that people say about fram filters but in my experience when I was working for honda fram filters will double gasket a lot. I would say 3 out of 5 cars that i saw come in with frams would lose the gasket on the block and you would have to pull it off.
People have said all kind of things about fram like they use toilet tissue to filter the oil, that the filter is all cardboard and plastic etc. but the whole gasket situation is the big problem I've seen with frams. Some times you will get lucky and you will remove a fram filter and the gasket will pop off. I've only seen that happen a couple of times though.
u guys are rediculus first of all ive use walmart oil and fram filters all my life and never had a problem and my cars ran well past 200k milesget the hell over yourselfs and just answer the mans question and argue amonst yourselfs to each other cuz to tell the truth i dont give a flyin f**k
There is always an exception to the rule. I bet you there are guys out there that change their oil every 12k in their ford pinto and it has 500K miles. there are always strange things that happen like that. My mindset is if I take care of my car it will take care of me. I'm going to treat my car well and put parts on it that will allow it to function in the way it was build to. I mean its like this, you could ask a girl to marry you and give her a ring pop but I bet you she would be a lot happier if you gave her a diamond ring. Nice parts not only help our cars preform but it makes them happy and last longer. (if that all makes sense.)
www.bobistheoilguy.com
www.theoldone.com
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
start reading
and depending on how clean you keep your air filter, along with how free flowing your PCV valve is, the cleaner your oil will remain
www.theoldone.com
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
start reading
and depending on how clean you keep your air filter, along with how free flowing your PCV valve is, the cleaner your oil will remain