i'm stumped.....any clues?

[Finnish~Racer]

can you post a diagram of how to reset mechanical timing? i want to read through it a few times so i have the method down before i decide to do it.

 

[RonJ]

can you post a diagram of how to reset mechanical timing? i want to read through it a few times so i have the method down before i decide to do it.

Have you checked the ignition timing? I'm trying to keep you from getting ahead of yourself.

If a timing belt has slipped, which we don't yet know is true, you should remove the current belt and replace it with a new one. This is because you should consider a slipped belt a damaged one that is now predisposed to slip again or even break, both of which could lead to severe engine damage.

Replacing the timing belt requires removal of the crank pulley, which is the hardest part of the job. Nonetheless, with the proper tools, the job is very doable.

 

[oc_civic]

Have you checked the ignition timing? I'm trying to keep you from getting ahead of yourself.

If a timing belt has slipped, which we don't yet know is true, you should remove the current belt and replace it with a new one. This is because you should consider a slipped belt a damaged one that is now predisposed to slip again or even break, both of which could lead to severe engine damage.

Replacing the timing belt requires removal of the crank pulley, which is the hardest part of the job. Nonetheless, with the proper tools, the job is very doable.

NOT to jump the gun here.. but are honda belts even known to jump like that.. i am NOT saying it is impossible by ANY means.. but i just have never personally known one to do that..


i have checked this thread EVERY day just waiting for the outcome.. lol

 

[RonJ]

NOT to jump the gun here.. but are honda belts even known to jump like that.. i am NOT saying it is impossible by ANY means.. but i just have never personally known one to do that..

Yeah, it's actually pretty common for a Civic timing belt to skip one or more teeth.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

no i havent had any time to get home since my last post. but saturday i'll be home to do that. i have a battery relocate to the trunk though, so would using jumper cables on the battery clamps on the ignition timer and then to the battery work?

and thanks for watching out for me!

 

[Finnish~Racer]

ok, so the ignition timing should be fine, the distributor has NEVER moved. theres enough evidence to deduce that the timing belt needs to be replaced and then set properly.

please ron post up the instructions and/or diagram of how to replace the timing belt.

i also found the coolant leak. The thermostat housing has that coolant pipe that leads behind the block to the water pump. The gasket between the pipe and thermo housing was pinched and was where it leaked from.
i tried to reset the piping and housing, but i couldnt "pop" it in. Ron do you have any instruction for that?

also, on the backside of the block is that black boxy thing that has an insert pipe to the block. i pulled it off to clean and i'm just wondering what that is. also the tubing on that black housing that goes to the IM kinda slides in and out of the housing....idk what it could be. maybe time to research on the honda retail site.

 

[Shiznit]

you should be able to find a write up on how to change the timing belt in the service manual link in ronj's sig.

 

[RonJ]

ok, so the ignition timing should be fine, the distributor has NEVER moved. theres enough evidence to deduce that the timing belt needs to be replaced and then set properly.

Based on your pictures, it's unclear to me that the mechanical timing is off. Checking the ignition timing will tell you whether the mechanical timing is off by a tooth. If so, you would be unable to set the ignition timing to spec. To avoid potentially removing the crank pulley for no reason, do yourself a favor by checking the ignition timing.

please ron post up the instructions and/or diagram of how to replace the timing belt.

This DIY is for a 96-00 Civic, but gives you a good sense of what the job entails.

i also found the coolant leak. The thermostat housing has that coolant pipe that leads behind the block to the water pump. The gasket between the pipe and thermo housing was pinched and was where it leaked from. i tried to reset the piping and housing, but i couldnt "pop" it in. Ron do you have any instruction for that?

Use the diagram below to identify the pipe/gasket you are talking about:

also, on the backside of the block is that black boxy thing that has an insert pipe to the block. i pulled it off to clean and i'm just wondering what that is. also the tubing on that black housing that goes to the IM kinda slides in and out of the housing....idk what it could be. maybe time to research on the honda retail site.

That's the oil breather chamber. It's part of the PCV system that reduces emissions by returning blowby gases in the crankcase to the IM.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

i can't get the car to turn over.....if i cant get it to idle, how can i check the ignition timing? I can see that the crank pulley is slighty off, just to the point where it won't fully run correctly

i'll read through the DIY.

the gasket is on the connecting pipe, where it meets the thermo housing.

so the oil breather chamber is the same thing that other people buy as a performance tank that is relocated around the engine bay?

 

[RonJ]

i can't get the car to turn over.....if i cant get it to idle, how can i check the ignition timing? I can see that the crank pulley is slighty off, just to the point where it won't fully run correctly

Your engine was recently running, right? When did this happen? Does the fuel pump prime? Is there spark at all four plugs?

so the oil breather chamber is the same thing that other people buy as a performance tank that is relocated around the engine bay?

Hmmm...not sure?

 

[Finnish~Racer]

i mean it did turn over, the pump is priming. and the plugs all spark. i'll recheck them to see if they spark.

i dont know. lol

so about the coolant line, how am i gonna get that o-ring in there?

 

[grichnyc]

i agree you should def check the cel codes, mechanics usually have the machine which they hook up under your steering wheel....but that happended to my accord, i changed the fuel regulator and it was great.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

read through this bro.....i've checked the CEL codes and addressed them already. lol

 

[Finnish~Racer]

ok, i hopped out to my car on a bright sunday afternoon after church and started wrenching.

i lubed up the gasket and low and behold "POP", the connecting pipe popped right into the thermostat housing. i filled up the radiator and.... NO LEAKS. so that is taken care of..... iavc code should clear up soon.

i pulled the codes to see if anything changed.....i pulled 6, 10, 14, and 38 (the 2nd vtec solenoid code)
hahahaha i looked them up and i realized i got some connectors backwards. nothing else is pulling.

so i'm gonna try to turn the car over and get it to idle somehow.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

ok, the 10 cel code disappeared already. i tried to start the car and its back to square one. all plugs have spark, theyre all in correct firing order on the dizzy.

it tries to crank, but it struggles to turn, and then it just seizes up like its stuck, with a ton of clicking coming from the thingy that clicks while the pump primes before turning the car over.

 

[RonJ]

Does the fuel pump prime? If not you may have blown a main relay fuse (44, 31, 13).

All of the cranking has drained the battery. Get a jump. If you still have codes 6 and 14, check whether the ECT and IACV connectors are swapped.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

i figured as much.
i dont have 6 anymore. 14 is still there me thinks.

arent you proud of me fixing the leak!

so i've been wondering, how cool and interesting would it be if i rebuilt my d15b and got a d15b tranny from tigerjap? i've been looking around and, from what i think i dont have a d15b tranny, i think building a complete import engine, then boosting and juicing it, would be SWEET!


but i gotta get it running first.

 

[RonJ]

Definitely good job with the pipe. I knew you would figure it out.

Does the fuel pump prime?

Get the battery charged and once you have the engine running, hook up a timing light.

 

[Finnish~Racer]

yeah pipe was fantastic once it went in..... i was like "YEAH!!!!" and then wiped my hands clean and admired my job.

fuel pump primes, every fuse is good, and I GOT IT TO RUN.....it was rough as all get out.

and while it ran, i grabbed up my timing light with jumper cables to reach to the battery and i timed it......
eeeee......gross.

 

[RonJ]

Did you get the ignition timing set to spec (alignment with red mark) with the engine idling at an approximately normal speed with the service connector jumped? If so, the mechanical timing is fine.

Are codes 14 and 38 the only codes now thrown?