No power to fuel pump, 2000 em1

boostedlsvem1

New Member
Hi there, I have been reading through almost every thread out there regarding no power to the fuel pump and done all the tests the ronj and others have recommended but it seems I have a slightly different problem then most. Ill start from the beginning, About a few days ago I was driving my car going to do some shopping, it was running great. When i was headed home i came to a stop light and as I was stopping the car died and would not restart (could not hear fuel pump running). A friend and i pushed the car into a parking lot and i proceeded to check the under dash and hood fuses (good) and put in a new relay that i got from the store after realizing i couldn't hear the fuel pump running. The car still wouldn't start so i got it towed home. I replaced the pump like most people would do thinking that was the issue but it didn't work so i checked for voltage at the plug going to the fuel pump and it read around 3 volts but was jumping. So from what I've seen on other threads you jump pin 5-7 on the relay plug and see if the pump runs (mine doesn't) now when i jump 7-1 the pump does run. if i ground out the green/yellow wire on the ecu plug A the pump also runs. I have replaced both the fuses found under the hood and under the dash to make sure they were good and tested voltage to them and it is fine. I'm leaning towards the edu being bad since the ecus are getting up there in age, any info would help. The specs for my car are that its a 2000 si, has a lsv swap in it, po6 ecu, thanks in advance for any help!
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
RonJ said:
Check fuse 13.
Click to expand...

I checked that fuse and it was good, I still replaced it to be safe. I did notice that when i turn the key to the on position (II) i hear a single click out of the engine bay, tried tracing it and seems like its coming from around my intake manifold.
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
i went back and redid the tests that I've seen you (ron j) ask people to do with similar issues. upon doing this my fuel pump runs when i jump pin 1-7 on the relay plug and it now runs the pump when i jump pin 5-7. I took the pins you were asking people to check voltage on and ohms and converted them over to my year of civic, these are my results..voltage tests for ecu plugs
a16- 10.53v
b9- 10.66v
b1- 10.62v

Ohm tests for ecu plug
b2 .4/.5 ohm
b10 .4 ohm
b20 2.17 ohm
b22 2.6 ohm

I then did your map sensor test as well, these are my readings..
red/black-4.5
green/white-.3
yellow/orange-4.95

ive replaced the fuses for fuse 13, 44, 34. Ive also tracked down my clicking sound when turning the key to the on (II) position, its the iacv and the heater blower relay.
 


RonJ

Banned
Unplug ECU connector A.

Turn key to ON(II).

Ground terminal A16 in the unplugged connector.

Does the fuel pump run as long as you have A16 (A7 or A8 in the OBD1 conversion harness) grounded?
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
RonJ said:
Unplug ECU connector A.

Turn key to ON(II).

Ground terminal A16 in the unplugged connector.

Does the fuel pump run as long as you have A16 (A7 or A8 in the OBD1 conversion harness) grounded?
Click to expand...

Yes the fuel pump does run when i ground out that pin when the key is on the on (II) position.
 

RonJ

Banned
Does the starter crank the engine in ON(III)?

With the key in ON(II), do you measure battery voltage at OBD1 ECU connector pins A25 and B1?

With key off, do you measure continuity to body ground at OBD1 ECU connector pins A26 and B2?
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
RonJ said:
Does the starter crank the engine in ON(III)?

With the key in ON(II), do you measure battery voltage at OBD1 ECU connector pins A25 and B1?

With key off, do you measure continuity to body ground at OBD1 ECU connector pins A26 and B2?
Click to expand...
The car does crank yes, I tested voltage on those pins (a25, b1) and a25 has 10.87v and b1 has 10.80v.
on the continuity test a26 i did not have continuity. b2 i had continuity.
 

RonJ

Banned
boostedlsvem1 said:
ok i will redo the test now and make sure the readings are correct. how do i go about fixing the problem of no continuity at a26?
Click to expand...

Stick a pin or needle adjacent to the A26 wire at the rear side of connector A deep enough so that it makes contact with the connector pin. Verify contact by demonstrating continuity between pin 26 at the front of the connector and the pin inserted at the rear of the connector. If there's continuity, attach a wire to the pin and ground the other end of the wire to the metal frame under the dash. Plug the connector back into the ECU. Does the engine now start and run?
 

RonJ

Banned
Use my OBD1 ECU pin numbers if you are doing the tests from the OBD1 ECU connector. You should do the tests from the OBD1 ECU connector. If there's no continuity to body ground at OBD1 A26, then unplug and replug the conversion harness and redo the A26 test.
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
alright just to verify (sorry if i sound stupid lol) but my wiring harness is obd2b (2000 civic) and then i go into a jumper that goes to the po6 ecu. I've been doing the tests off the plugs that are coming from the car (unplugging them from the jumper) so when your giving obd1 pin numbers I've been converting them to my obd2 plugs, but i didn't do that for the a26 and b2 continuity test. so my question in do i need to convert those and test?
 

RonJ

Banned
You need to do all tests that I have described at the ECU connectors that plug into the OBD1 P06 ECU.

Post the results, starting with A26.
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
RonJ said:
You need to do all tests that I have described at the ECU connectors that plug into the OBD1 P06 ECU.

Post the results, starting with A26.
Click to expand...
ok i did the tests off the connectors that are going into the ecu. now i assumed that the clip to release the connector from the ecu was the top (is that correct?) if thats correct then a26 had no continuity and neither did b2.
 

RonJ

Banned
With key in ON(II), redo the voltage tests at OBD1 A25 and B1, and the grounding test at OBD1 A7/A8 to see if the fuel pump runs.
 

boostedlsvem1

New Member
RonJ said:
With key in ON(II), redo the voltage tests at OBD1 A25 and B1, and the grounding test at OBD1 A7/A8 to see if the fuel pump runs.
Click to expand...
Alright i redid the test, A25 had 11.47v. B1 had 11.46v. i grounded out A7 with the key in the on (II) and the fuel pump ran.
 
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