Make sure you test it using the method described in the link in RonJ's signature.No, I havent checked that fuse yet and honestly its only because I forgot. Ill try n get a look at that today. Thank you for reminding me of that.
I believe she already bought the O2 sensor. I guess, of course, she could return it if it's not needed.You possibly have a bad O2 sensor but, because of the high cost, you should first use a multimeter to verify that the heater element power wire of the O2 sensor plug gets battery voltage with the key in ON(II) and also that the heater element ground wire gets ground from the ECU.
The tool is called a test light. It's inexpensive and is available at any auto parts store.Yes, I did already buy the O2 sensor. I am still confused on what you mean RonJ. I could show my boyfriend what you said and see if he understands it better then me lolz. I went to the link that someone had posted but I don't have the tool shown to test my fuses and don't even know what it's called....
No problem. By the way, that sig is out of spec. Max is 500x100. Might wanna switch it before mods see, haha.Oh haha wow I feel blonde now. Thank you!
By the way, why does your Si have a steelie on it in that sig? Is it a spare?Haha thanx whoopnip, I had no idea there were size requirements for those, ill definetly change that.
If you read the entire thread, you will see that the main bogging/misfire problem was fixed by replacing the cap and rotor. The thread has now become focused on fixing an O2 sensor code.I'm dealing with a problem kinda like this right now... Anywhere below 3k rpms, I have absolutely NO power and the care kind of stumbles past the 3k mark and then feels fine... I'm planning in replacing the plugs, dizzy cap and rotor asap to try and fix this, but imma pay attention to this thread and see how it turns out for you...