power window broke

[mc360]

yes i will need help i have found the diagram on how to test for 01-05 civic coupe and 96-00 sedan but not 96-00 coupe.im thinking it might be my master window switch but i will need to test both window switches so i need to know how to do both

 

[RonJ]

For voltage measurements, set dial to the position circled in blue.

For continuity measurements, set dial to the position circled in red. A reading of 100 Ohms or less indicates continuity.

The first test you should do is test whether the motor connector gets voltage without the switch pressed. Unplug the connector for the driver's side motor and test for battery voltage to body ground at the Red/Yel and Red/Blu wires.

 

[mc360]

ok so how can i test the switches? for some reason the motor is not running by itself anymore like it was before. i tested the 5 pin connector on passenger side to the 2 pin motor plug for continuity and that was ok for both up and down.

 

[RonJ]

What about the voltage test? Just test the two wires and go from there.

 

[mc360]

i unplugged the motor on the passenger side and tested both blu/wht and blu/red and nothing showed on the multimeter. im pretty sure its one of the switches, i bought some electrical cleaner spay and used it on both switches hoping it would fix it but it didnt.
i found the fsm online and downloaded it and found how to test the connnecter so im going to try that right now.

 

[RonJ]

i found the fsm online and downloaded it and found how to test the connnecter so im going to try that right now.

Good. Testing whether the switches receive battery voltage is the logical next step.

Passenger switch - the Grn/Blk wire should be hot.
Driver master switch - the Grn/Blk and Blu/Blk wires should be hot.

Have you already tested dash fuses 10, 11, and 24?

 

[mc360]

ok so im not getting continuity throught grn/blk wire from driver plug to passenger plug and the same for blu/yel. the blu/orn does have continuity though, is there a common cause for this? probably the driverside door harness?

 

[RonJ]

ok so im not getting continuity throught grn/blk wire from driver plug to passenger plug and the same for blu/yel. the blu/orn is there a common cause for this? probably the driverside door harness?

How are you doing the continuity tests?

Does the Grn/Blk wire have battery voltage at the driver switch plug?

 

[mc360]

i have not tested the fuses because i figured if my driver window goes up and down the fuse should be ok. also just found out that the grn/blk has no voltage but my blu/blk has 12 volts like its supposed to

 

[mc360]

i put the red lead into the driverside plug and the black lead into the passenger side plug.

btw thanks for all the help

 

[mc360]

ok back to square one, i checked the fuses and fuse 10 was burnt..... i must have done that when testing the motor? i disconnected the 2 pin plug for the motor and the blu/red wire is getting 12 volts without the switch being pressed down

 

[RonJ]

ok back to square one, i checked the fuses and fuse 10 was burnt..... i must have done that when testing the motor? i disconnected the 2 pin plug for the motor and the blu/red wire is getting 12 volts without the switch being pressed down

Now test for voltage in the Grn/Blk, Blu/Yel, and Blu/Orn wires in the unplugged passenger switch connector.

What are you using as ground in your voltage tests?

 

[mc360]

grn/blk is 12 .20 volts and blu/orn is 0.06v and blu/yel is 12.20 volts

 

[RonJ]

grn/blk is 12 .20 volts and blu/orn is 0.06v and blu/yel is 12.20 volts

While the Grn/Blk wire should have battery voltage, the Blu/Yel wire should not, like the Blu/Orn wire. This tells you it is the passenger switch in the driver's door that is stuck in the UP position. Test that switch. It is likely the cause of the problem.

 

[mc360]

ok sweet thanks alot again. i tested the driverside the way the fsm said but maybe i messed up, i touched the contacts with the switch in the up position then the down position then up and down with the lock on and off so i guess i will re check it tomorrow

 

[RonJ]

ok sweet thanks alot again. i tested the driverside the way the fsm said but maybe i messed up, i touched the contacts with the switch in the up position then the down position then up and down with the lock on and off so i guess i will re check it tomorrow

Note that the FSM diagram for testing the switch also shows the expected continuity results for the OFF position. That's where you'll find the problem. There will be continuity where it shouldn't exist between A6 and A7.

 

[mc360]

ok so i bought a new window switch and it didnt fix the problem? last week after i did all the testing all of a sudden my driver window motor quit working, the driver side still doesnt work with the new switch at all and the passenger side still goes up so is there a short somewhere? my battery is dead in my multimeter so i cant to any testing right now.

also i did that master switch imput test and nothing passes besides the ground continuity which is the first thing, what could this mean a messed up door harness or door?

 

[mc360]

well here is my window problem but now i need a pinout so i can maybe fix this plug. if not im going to have to yank one from the junk yard

 

[glenn77539]

I have a 1996 Honda Civic Ex Coupe and I am losing power to my windows. But some time the power is there. What would cause me to lose power on and off? Please help

 

[mc360]

check the door wiring harness, mine would not work for a week or so then one day i tryed to roll my window down with the door open and it worked but when i closed the door it didnt.