Questions on replacing head gasket

[Riick]

Can the head be removed without undoing the connection between pipe A and the manifold?
One of the nuts is so rusted the socket just spins on it. (I tried cutting the flange to fit a vise grip, but there's not enough room up there for one. Besides which I dulled the usless mini-hacksaw blade just with those two cuts.)

 

[Riick]

Any problem in removing the manifold from the head without disconnecting it from pipe A? At this point I'm thinking it might make more sense to just drop the exhaust system instead of wasting time on that one nut.

 

[sohclubkid]

Any problem in removing the manifold from the head without disconnecting it from pipe A? At this point I'm thinking it might make more sense to just drop the exhaust system instead of wasting time on that one nut.

i believe that nut is permanatly attached. the bolt is all you need to remove from the opposite side.

i usually unbolt the j pipe where it has the spring bolts under the car, then remove the manifold from the head and pull it out.

be sure to spray the manifold nuts with PB blaster and let it sit for a bit so you dont snap any studs.

 

[Riick]

i believe that nut is permanatly attached. the bolt is all you need to remove from the opposite side.

Unfortunately, Honda doesn't make it that easy! That's a stud not a bolt.

i usually unbolt the j pipe where it has the spring bolts under the car, then remove the manifold from the head and pull it out.

Good. That way I would not have to deal with the nut in the photo.
Seems I could save some trouble by simply disconnecting the rubber hangers instead of battling the rusty spring bolts. Is there something I'm not seeing though?

be sure to spray the manifold nuts with PB blaster and let it sit for a bit so you dont snap any studs.

Good reminder.
Tell me- do I need to buy an impact wrench or impact driver for any of this stuff or is it possible to do with just my pb blaster, torch, and cheater bar? I've heard impact is less likely to snap or strip things that's why I ask; trouble is this project is eating my budget too much as it is.

FWIW, Right now I'm doing battle with the manifold mount bolts and I think they're winning.

 

[sohclubkid]

i did all mine with hand tools, PB blaster, a torch if needed, and brute strength.
a wire brush might help get rid of the rust... find a stainless steel wire brush, hit the rust with pb blaster and start brushing it off.

removing it from the hangers would work... its just a hassle trying to remove the whole exhaust from the car as opposed to just the manifold and j pipe. not to mention trying to lift the whole thing back up into place when re-assembling.

 

[Riick]

i did all mine with hand tools, PB blaster, a torch if needed, and brute strength.

Good. With luck I can do the same.

its just a hassle trying to remove the whole exhaust from the car as opposed to just the manifold and j pipe. not to mention trying to lift the whole thing back up into place when re-assembling.

Given the sorry state of the pipes I think it might be even more of a hassle to undo and also to reconnect without exhaust leaks. I've read a jack can help hold it up while I reconnect it. I suppose if it's too impossible I can disconnect the spring bolts at that point. I'm starting to wonder though if I'll ever get to reconnecting!

 

[Riick]

Any advice on loosening the timing belt adjusting bolt? Seems like if I apply any more force I'm going to damage the bolt. Surprised it's this stuck given that the whole spring tensioner is just a few months old(installed by a mechanic who insisted there was no head gasket leak, but that's another story.)

Also how do I get the cam pulley retaining bolt loose without spinning the cam around?

 

[sohclubkid]

Any advice on loosening the timing belt adjusting bolt? Seems like if I apply any more force I'm going to damage the bolt. Surprised it's this stuck given that the whole spring tensioner is just a few months old(installed by a mechanic who insisted there was no head gasket leak, but that's another story.)

Also how do I get the cam pulley retaining bolt loose without spinning the cam around?

the adjustment bolt should be somewhat tight, just do what you can to break it free. pb blaster all bolts man LOL

you dont need to remove the cam bolt.

 

[Riick]

pb blaster all bolts

Uh... how do I get pb blaster on the bolt without getting it all over the timing belt?
I sure wish that lower timing cover weren't in the way...

 

[obracer12]

stuff a rag into the gap by the timing belt... also invest in a breaker bar, thensioner bolts are tight but nothing a good 12- 14" breaker can't handle

 

[Riick]

Is it possible to get the lower timing cover out of the way without removing the crank pulley?

There is no direct route to the boltl so the pb blaster would have to turn a couple corners and then travel a few more inches through the air to get to the bolt. (The water pump housing is blocking the thread side of the bolt, and a plastic tab on the timing cover is blocking the head part of the bolt.) Any ideas? Anyone here have experience doing this with the lower timing cover still attached?

the tensioner bolts are tight but nothing a good 12- 14" breaker can't handle

I am using a 18" cheater bar. That's why I am concerned about breaking the bolt.

 

[Riick]

1) How do you keep gasket pieces and such out of the water jacket while cleaning the block? Does it matter if pieces of gasket get in there?

2) How do I get out all the pieces and specks of gunk that fell into the cylinders when I removed the head? I've read it's a bad idea to do any cleaning in there, so what do people do?

3) FYI: The belt tensioner bolt finally came loose after about 100 lb-ft of torque. (I did work a strip of roofing flashing onto the threads and let pb blaster run down it, but I don't think that made a difference. I'm lucky the bolt didn't break.)

 

[Riick]

anyone?

 

[sohclubkid]

1) How do you keep gasket pieces and such out of the water jacket while cleaning the block? Does it matter if pieces of gasket get in there?

2) How do I get out all the pieces and specks of gunk that fell into the cylinders when I removed the head? I've read it's a bad idea to do any cleaning in there, so what do people do?

3) FYI: The belt tensioner bolt finally came loose after about 100 lb-ft of torque. (I did work a strip of roofing flashing onto the threads and let pb blaster run down it, but I don't think that made a difference. I'm lucky the bolt didn't break.)

1. gasket pieces? it should come off as one piece... if stuff gets in there you can flush the cooling system and it should come out.

2. i used a microfiber rag. spray the cylinder with wd40 and lightly wiped out anything in them.

3, when you re-install it, make sure you torque it to the correct ammount.

 

[Riick]

1. gasket pieces? it should come off as one piece...

I wish! In my case it's a mess of flakes and a strange sticky and mushy metal goo.

if stuff gets in there you can flush the cooling system and it should come out.

Good. I was afraid I might have to remove the block drain plug- I found out last week that it won't budge.

2. i used a microfiber rag. spray the cylinder with wd40 and lightly wiped out anything in them.

I don't have microfiber... do you suppose cotton would work?

3, when you re-install it, make sure you torque it to the correct ammount.

Yeah good call!

 

[sohclubkid]

yeah, just make sure its clean before you use it.

 

[Riick]

Block and sleeve damage. I'm pretty upset. There's nothing I can do, right? I've heard of using jb weld to repair blocks but does that ever work and would it work in this case? Before I junk the car I want to know what my options are.

Also curious how this happened... is it odd that the damage is on both sides of the water chamber? (FYI The damage is on the exhaust side of the #1 piston.)

 

[sohclubkid]

Block and sleeve damage. I'm pretty upset. There's nothing I can do, right? I've heard of using jb weld to repair blocks but does that ever work and would it work in this case? Before I junk the car I want to know what my options are.

Also curious how this happened... is it odd that the damage is on both sides of the water chamber? (FYI The damage is on the exhaust side of the #1 piston.)

yikes.
in pics 2 and 3 is that a crack through the cylinder wall? if so, its toast unless you re-sleeve it.

on another note... you can buy a used D series for cheap to save it.
i would hate to see a nice hatch junked just for a blown motor!

 

[Riick]

in pics 2 and 3 is that a crack through the cylinder wall? if so, its toast unless you re-sleeve it.

I can't really tell if it's a crack or a gouge. I'm assuming it's a crack just because it's so close to the other damage. Question: even if I resleeve it won't there still be problems due to the chips in the block around the sleeve?

on another note... you can buy a used D series for cheap to save it.
i would hate to see a nice hatch junked just for a blown motor!

Well it's not exactly a nice hatch (things like the engine support beam are starting to rust, pretty sizeable dents in the sides, malfunctioning brake caliper, speaker, speedometer, and tires). Nevertheless I had planned to use this car for the next year or two and I hate to throw away the time and money already invested. How would I find engines? How pricey do you suppose it might be to have someone put it in for me or with me? This head gasket stuff is already pushing the limits of my know-how and my tools.

 

[sohclubkid]

I can't really tell if it's a crack or a gouge. I'm assuming it's a crack just because it's so close to the other damage. Question: even if I resleeve it won't there still be problems due to the chips in the block around the sleeve?


Well it's not exactly a nice hatch (things like the engine support beam are starting to rust, pretty sizeable dents in the sides, malfunctioning brake caliper, speaker, speedometer, and tires). Nevertheless I had planned to use this car for the next year or two and I hate to throw away the time and money already invested. How would I find engines? How pricey do you suppose it might be to have someone put it in for me or with me? This head gasket stuff is already pushing the limits of my know-how and my tools.

yeah, its new motor time i think.

go to a junkyard or craigslist and find a SOHC motor. if you can remove a cylinder head, you can swap a motor. its not hard.