I think it just pulls out or unscrews (normal threads).how do you remove the back up light switch? does it just pull out? counterclockwise? maybe need a wrench? it says remove switch but it does look like you need a wrench...
Did you check whether dash fuse 19 is blown?oooh ok well i tried but it wont budge but it does look like theres a wrench needed but um anyways...dad says if you connect the two wires on top of the switch the back up lights should go on...they do not so does this mean the switch is bad?
fuse 19 is not blown and i jumped the two and lights did not turn on. So this suggests a problem with the ground? i also checked bulbs they seemed fine like newDid you check whether dash fuse 19 is blown?
If you unplug the switch connector, jump the Yel wire to the Grn/Blk wire in the wire harness connector, and turn the key to ON(II), then the back up light should turn on.
How did you test fuse 19? Visual inspection does not catch all blown fuses.fuse 19 is not blown and i jumped the two and lights did not turn on. So this suggests a problem with the ground? i also checked bulbs they seemed fine like new
i have this fuse checking light thingy that came with a set of fuses i bought a while ago and light went on when it was tested.How did you test fuse 19? Visual inspection does not catch all blown fuses.
Also use a multimeter to check whether the Yel wire at the plug has battery voltage with the key in ON(II).
If the ground connection were bad, other rear lights also would not work.
Check for voltage at both test tabs of fuse 19.i have this fuse checking light thingy that came with a set of fuses i bought a while ago and light went on when it was tested.
Multimeter showed no voltage on the yellow wire nor the connector part of the yellow wire so connector is not the problem.
All 5 Brake lights and both turn lights also turn on.
so where does the yellow wire begin? on the ecu?
Check for voltage at both test tabs of fuse 19.
fuse number 19 has been replaced...problem persists...reverse lights will not go on.Fuse 19 is blown.
Click the Fuses link in my signature to learn how to test fuses.
Click the Fuses link in my signature to learn how to test fuses.
It could be a fuse box problem, but first test both top metal fuse tabs for voltage as describe at the link.ooooh ok gotcha
so if the fuse is blown what is needed to fix it? You are talking about the box itself(connector number 19) not the actual 7.5 amp fuse right?
when tested with the voltage meter grounded to metal part it showed voltage on both ends of fuse(new fuse)It could be a fuse box problem, but first test both top metal fuse tabs for voltage as describe at the link.
And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.when tested with the voltage meter grounded to metal part it showed voltage on both ends of fuse(new fuse)
correct still no voltage at yellow wire on the connector. But can you tell me where does this yellow/red-yellow wire(s) start at? after the fuse box? So inspecting entire harness is going to have to be it then huh?And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.
the cruise control also does not work and the fuse is working properly, so maybe it is a bad dash fuse box?And yet there's no voltage at the Yel wire terminal of the switch connector, right? If so, there's an open in the circuit/wire between fuse 19 and the switch connector. This could be caused by a bad dash fuse box or a broken Yel/Red-Yel wire.