Which D series motor are you running? It makes a difference. From my experience the y8 & z6 blocks handle boost the best. As stupid as it sounds the DX enginge is the best all around d series to go with for boosting though. Simply because its got the lowest compressiong to start with.
I've been running 10psi on a d16y8 (96-00 EX) for almost 2 years now too. I'm running a SC so things are a little different but the essentials are identical. Here's the recipie for things that are essential:
- FMU, Cartech & Vortech models work just fine. The DRAG kit comes with their own FMU so you're all good there. I have no idea how reliable their unit is though. I can vouch for the Cartech unit being flawless.
- Fuel pump, I highly suggest Walbro. Many other companies just put their own badging on Walbro units & sell them for more. go to www.autoperformanceengineering.com for some great prices on them. The DRAG includes an inline pump which will work just fine as well. The only problem is that inline pumps are pretty noisy.
- colder spark plugs. Typically with forced induction 2 steps colder works best.
- Turbo timer. You NEED this. Do not skimp. Unless you're planning on sitting in your car with it idling for 2 minutes every time you're done driving.
With the DRAG kit most of your bases are covered. With the above mentioned parts you'll be good to run 6psi daily & have virtually no problems. I'd even go so far as to say that 8psi is achievable with that setup as long as it's not used regularly. If you want some more reliability here's my suggestions:
- 160 degree thermostat. There's plenty of them out there (Spoon, Mugen, JR, etc.). The Jackson Racing one is by far the most affordable at $10. Most of the others are much higher.
- Better radiator. It's not really necesary but it will definately help keep things cool. If you don't want your AC any more you can fit an Integra radiator in with minor welding. It's the best "bang for the buck" option.
- Iignition system. Take your pick, there are plenty to choose from. The safest bet for a NA car that's forced would be one with a Boost dependant ignition retard function.
- VAFC or some other form of fuel management computer. Since you've already got the FMU it would go to waste with a Hondata. Usually the FMU & fuel pump combo will get you near where you need to be fuel wise but there's always room for improvement. A VAFC will work well with the rest of this setup.
- larger injectors. I have RC engineering 310cc injectors in mine & they're too damn big for a sohc even at 10psi. 270cc ones would be a better choice. You could even pick up a set of GSR ones for less money & not have to worry about putting on the new clips.
- Boost controller of some kind. Manual types are the best bet for the $$$. Turbo XS & HKS make good ones that are under $100.
If you get all of the above mentioned parts you'd probably be good to run 8-10 psi daily. Keep in mind that all of my pressure estimates are based on the system being tuned properly. I can't stress enough how important proper tuning is to a boosted Honda. Without the proper tuning you could even blow things up at 4 psi. Keep that in mind. If you don't know for sure that everything is doing exactly what it's supposed to be doing please just drive it like a grandma & keep the boost levels down until you've got everything squared away.
If you want any more help with your setup or just want to hear some horror stories about what not to do let me know. I'm more than willing to help people build up their single cams right
.
Till L8er,
Ken