lol yeah I seeyour paint with the hood. I'll have to tinker with my current hood, that way I can f**k up on that before the new one.you sure?
last time i checked with that manifold you needed to trim the webbing.
when i had one(never used it) i test fitted it.
tell me that aint close.
yeah turboing a honda engine is not the same(far from it) then a diesel
best place is 12" or more from exit of turbo.you hook up the wideband into your exhaust....i forgot where to hook it in at exactly though
lol.depends on the kind of wideband you get, some such as the aem Uego is a gauge and o2 sensor like thing that are one unit, the sensor which is shaped like an o2 sensor goes in a bung about 12-18 inches from the turbo, in the downpipe and the wires run straight to the individual gauge to give you read. Others such as Innovate, have a sensor, also like an o2 sensor that you either wire to a wideband gauge or to a laptop with the wideband program.
Edit: dang it Steve, in the time it took me to write my response, you typed your own.
But as you say to change the map, that would mean you can hook it up right? Or am I jsut completly missing some piece to this?no no.
you can hook it to a computer (laptop) or just use a gauge, and monitor the air/fuel ratio. and make changes to you map(ecu program) to get the a/f ratio to where you need it.
i have the LC-1 kit, comes with the sensor and the controller, no gauge. i will be getting a gauge (moates.net o-meter). i will be hooking it to my computer when i tune the car so i have all the data in one place.
Oh ok I see. I must have read the manual wrong then. When I read it I thought you had to programit all in like the minimum and maximum. But I get it now.you dont program it, it just reads the a/f ratio.
and yes the manifold i had was ssautochrome/ebay
serach about them
no they crack very easy.Oh ok I see. I must have read the manual wrong then. When I read it I thought you had to programit all in like the minimum and maximum. But I get it now.
Yeah those manifold really don't look bad at all. They have some weird ones on there but they look like they can take a beating or two.
Well, if anything does end up happening, I am glad my brothers are welders lol. But even though I am on a budget, and I dont wanna spend a lot, it doesnt mean that down the road I wont end up upgrading to a better log style ram horn style. If my friend came through I would have have a ram horn and down pipe for 400, but he ended up selling it to another guy.no they crack very easy.
http://www.d-series.org/forums//showthread.php?t=56167
I was always told that these manifolds are not good for releaving the exhaust pressure. since the WG is on top of one of the exhaust ports pretty much. But i will see how long this one lasts me, and if it breaks, ill weld it and sell it and then buy the cast.the a/f gauge is just a light show, does not show any useable info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/civic-crx-del-sol-d15-d16-cast-t3-turbo-manifold_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1222Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem380079023040QQitemZ380079023040QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
that manifold is MUCH better then the one you are getting.
only thing you would need is a wastgate elbow, cause in a 88-91 if you mount the wastegate straight onto the manifold it hits the hood.