"The Mothership" - 1998 Civic - Maintenance Log

Puma

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I REALLY enjoyed seeing you clean and maintain pieces of the car most people do not. But then you ruined the headlights by painting the housings, tails, hubs, and put on that cheap intake. :(
 

TokyoSkies

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I REALLY enjoyed seeing you clean and maintain pieces of the car most people do not. But then you ruined the headlights by painting the housings, tails, hubs, and put on that cheap intake. :(
Eh, no, not really. The headlights are fine (he essentially has CTR headlights now.. OEM!). I'm not a fan of the tails and hubs, but they don't ruin the car. And an intake is a f**king intake :what:. Doesn't matter.

I really enjoy your attention to detail! I have those same window motors and regulators (I bought both and switched em out at the same time). I have to say, mine weren't flimsy at all, and they sound/operate exactly like OEM. Had them in about a year now with zero problems. I guess it's hit or miss with Dorman?
That's the first I've heard of Hondabond when replacing valve cover gasket as well.. Most people just replace the gasket and torque everything down.. Done.. I'll look more into that.
Anywho, keep up the good work!
 


ctag

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I REALLY enjoyed seeing you clean and maintain pieces of the car most people do not. But then you ruined the headlights by painting the housings, tails, hubs, and put on that cheap intake.
Aw man, that really hurts ;)

Luckily things like the tail lights and cheapo intake are just a little ways away from being completely replaced.

TokyoSkies, I've been reading up on the hondabond. Instructions to use it are, in fact, in my Haynes manual. Looks like it just takes a few dabs around the corners of the gasket. I'll write a more detailed post later this week hopefully.
 
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Puma

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Aw man, that really hurts ;)

Luckily things like the tail lights and cheapo intake are just a little ways away from being completely replaced.

TokyoSkies, I've been reading up on the hondabond. Instructions to use it are, in fact, in my Haynes manual. Looks like it just takes a few dabs around the corners of the gasket. I'll write a more detailed post later this week hopefully.
Replaced with what I hope, OEM. Not riced, OEM.
 


ctag

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Oh I've definitely learned my lesson, OEM almost all the way :thumbs up

Those hubcaps are here to stay though.
 

Puma

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Oh I've definitely learned my lesson, OEM almost all the way :thumbs up

Those hubcaps are here to stay though.
they make the car look beat up and cheaper than a 15-17 year old econo-car really looks.
 

TokyoSkies

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Aw man, that really hurts ;)

Luckily things like the tail lights and cheapo intake are just a little ways away from being completely replaced.

TokyoSkies, I've been reading up on the hondabond. Instructions to use it are, in fact, in my Haynes manual. Looks like it just takes a few dabs around the corners of the gasket. I'll write a more detailed post later this week hopefully.
Interesting! I just did some research, and saw that Hondabond (or Permatex Ultra Grey, which is essentially the same stuff if you can't get Hondabond) is used to seal over the camshaft cover. Never knew that! Looks like I'll be picking some up.
 

ctag

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Puma, You know, I almost bought a Geo Metro...

TokyoSkies, Permatex Grey sounds promising, I might still spring for Hondabond with this though, just to be safe.
 

Puma

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Puma, You know, I almost bought a Geo Metro...

TokyoSkies, Permatex Grey sounds promising, I might still spring for Hondabond with this though, just to be safe.
OH! So you stayed in the same econo-box category! :lol:
 

buzzbombtom

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they are in fact the same, i think hondabond is black and the other is grey. the price is not much different. look i HELPED someone! this s**t is getting too real for me. sooooo uuuhhhh f**k YOU N000B YOUR CAR IS A RICER PIECE OF s**t!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 GET OFF CLUBCIVIC.... phew now i feel more comfy.
 

Puma

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they are in fact the same, i think hondabond is black and the other is grey. the price is not much different. look i HELPED someone! this s*** is getting too real for me. sooooo uuuhhhh f*** YOU N000B YOUR CAR IS A RICER PIECE OF s***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 GET OFF CLUBCIVIC.... phew now i feel more comfy.
<3
I was being really nice a few days ago on here and I got bored. More bored than usual.
 

ctag

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Damn, I either need to get off the internet or go back to uncovered steelies :???:

:-\ So much for this page of my thread.
 

Puma

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Damn, I either need to get off the internet or go back to uncovered steelies :???:

:-\ So much for this page of my thread.
STOCK, UNMOLESTED hubs help a car better than shiny steel wheels. Stock dark wheels make it a 'lesser than less' base model, and show more imperfections.

My DX converted to an EX was a night and day difference when I put the steel wheels on for winter. Hated it so much that I found a guy on CL with stock hubs and it looked a million times better.

Just stay specific to each gen, and if you decide to change it up, do it time period, and chasis period appropriately.
I mean, to each their own, but this is probably my biggest pet peeve.
 

Puma

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STAP saying unmolested!!!
Oh BTW, it turns out I didn't need an UNMOLESTED P28. We now have no f*cking clue what is wrong with the pile of sh*t, b/c it ran like dirt on 3 different ECU's yesterday. Gonna burn that thing soon...
 

ctag

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As I left work today I took the time to really look at my car.
...
I'm totally happy with it and love to drive. Sorry to disappoint.


Alrighty, time for astro-physics

Job: replace the (supposedly) leaking valve cover gasket.

I'm going to be replacing:
- Valve cover gasket
- Distributor gasket
- Distributor cap(?)
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires(?)
- Oil (engine oil change)
- Oil pan gasket (I'm not sure)
- Timing belt (I wish)

Parts list:
- Valve cover gasket
- Distributor gasket
- Hondabond / Permatex ultra grey
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- Oil pan gasket + RTV sealant

After reading through the service manual and online, I get that there's an opening behind the distributor where oil can leak from. Now I really don't know which seal is leaking, so I'm set on replacing both.

Picture of connection between dizzy and engine:



For the distributor, my manual says that I have to turn the engine over until it's pointing at the connection for the first cylinder. On forums I've read that I can just mark the location and not worry about it. What's the chances of taking the dizzy off and not getting it to match up and go back on?

I've seen spark plugs at Walmart that have four electrodes, quite unlike the ones currently in my car. Any input on what type of spark plugs to get?

For that matter what about spark plug wires? Are those one of the OEM or nothing items?

I'd like to go ahead and remove the oil pan and clean it, I image the interior hasn't seen the light of day since it was put on the car. Thoughts?
 
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TokyoSkies

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As I left work today I took the time to really look at my car.
...
I'm totally happy with it and love to drive. Sorry to disappoint.


Alrighty, time for astro-physics

Job: replace the (supposedly) leaking valve cover gasket.

I'm going to be replacing:
- Valve cover gasket
- Distributor gasket
- Distributor cap(?)
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires(?)
- Oil (engine oil change)
- Oil pan gasket (I'm not sure)
- Timing belt (I wish)

Parts list:
- Valve cover gasket
- Distributor gasket
- Hondabond / Permatex ultra grey
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- Oil pan gasket + RTV sealant

After reading through the service manual and online, I get that there's an opening behind the distributor where oil can leak from. Now I really don't know which seal is leaking, so I'm set on replacing both.

Picture of connection between dizzy and engine:


For the distributor, my manual says that I have to turn the engine over until it's pointing at the connection for the first cylinder. On forums I've read that I can just mark the location and not worry about it. What's the chances of taking the dizzy off and not getting it to match up and go back on?

I've seen spark plugs at Walmart that have four electrodes, quite unlike the ones currently in my car. Any input on what type of spark plugs to get?

For that matter what about spark plug wires? Are those one of the OEM or nothing items?

I'd like to go ahead and remove the oil pan and clean it, I image the interior hasn't seen the light of day since it was put on the car. Thoughts?
The distributor is pretty straight-forward. I remove mine pretty regularly. There's a line on the shaft of the distributor that aligns with your cam. It can literally only go in one way. You really can't screw it up. If it doesn't slide right in, rotate the shaft on the distributor 180 degrees, and slide it in. Do NOT force it in. It should slide in with very little resistance, and it should "click" once seated right. Basically, ensure it's lined up with the cam. Once you get it off, and look at both the dizzy and cam angle, you'll understand it right off the bat. Once it's back into the head, thread the bolts into the dizzy finger tight (leaving wiggle room). Start the car, and rotate the dizzy clockwise/counter clockwise to ensure timing is correct (car's idle will fluctuate. It should idle at 500-600RPM warm). Once you've got the idle right, crank the bolts down to spec (I think they were something like 7lb/ft, check your Hayne's manual), and you're done. It's cake.
As far as spark plugs, I use Bosch Iridium spark plugs, ungapped (as we're N/A, gapping isn't relevant). You can use standard cheapos just fine. Spark plug wires, use factory recommended (I think 5mm? I can't remember lol). Just about any will do just fine. Pay attention to firing order (just leave your spark plugs plugged into the dizzy).
Oil pan is bolt on, bolt off. Just ensure you change the gasket/use RTV after removal. Also, drain all the oil :P.
 

ctag

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Awesome, thank you for the advice!

I'll plug away at a list of parts and hopefully buy them sometime next week.
 

jameswanser

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the oilpan gasket can be a bear to get back on properly, as it sits in a groove on the edge of the pan and mine kept trying to lift out of the groove as I was trying to put the pan back on. Make sure before you tighten the pan bolts/nuts back on that the gasket is actually seated correctly, and not pinched somewhere. Other than that, it's pretty easy to change (just really messy)
 

ctag

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Okay, still gearing up for gasket replacement.

I'm relieved to hear about the notched connection with the distributor, I guess the plan there is to just remove the dizzy and replace the gasket while lining up the notch.

The term OEM is throwing me for a loop. I'm pretty sure it's worth it to go OEM with the gaskets, but I'm not sure how to tell / where to find them. If an item is described as OE, is that the same thing? I'd still rather buy the parts online and not have to go to a dealer if possible.
(What about http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com?, I can find most of the gaskets and stuff there)

I've been toying with the idea of trying to tackle replacing the timing belt and water pump at the same go, as long as the valve cover is off... Instead my mind is currently made up that I'll see if I can get a glimpse of the timing belt while replacing the gasket and check to see that it looks alright. Next summer I'll come back and replace it.

Parts:
RTV - Ultra Grey
- Walmart

Valve Cover Gasket, Distributor Gasket, Oil Pan Gasket
- Majestic Honda online (link above)?
- Autozone?

Distributor O-ring replacement thread
 


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