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I've been having some trouble with my Civic with a persistent code 4: crankshaft position sensor. Changed the distributor, and I still get the code. I chased the wires up to the connector by the battery, and there was continuity between the sensor and there. I'm starting to wonder if the ECU is...

I need a complete d16y7 head. My exhaust valve is leaking on my #2 cylinder, and I don't want to redo the head, so, if I can get a cheap one here, I'll just bolt a different one on. Let me know what you guys have!

I need a headlight switch asap and as cheap as possible. I don't want to throw $110 on a new one for a car that has over 300,000 miles on it and is beat beyond recognition.

It's around forty bucks. Thanks for the direction. I'll order it soon.

It's most likely a broken/bad contact in the plug in the dash connector; if I'm reading your post right that is. Check to make sure that the wires are not pulled, kinked, or frayed.

Take off your alternator belt and spin the alternator by hand. Try to check for spots that drag or fainst squeaks. A bad alternator can cause the belt to slip due to the excess drag, or the alternator can cause a squealing noise due to a faulty bearing.

Is there a good place to buy one? Mine is quite sticky shifting out of park. Lubricating the cable helps, but only a short while, so it seems it is time to pony up a little cash and buy one. So, any ideas where I can find one besides a salvage yard? I have checked online for a while, so if...

No codes until I unplugged the O2 sensors. Now the car actually runs okay, though, so it must be the manifold causing the issues.

I'm having some problems with my Civic. It starts hard, runs terribly, and stalls constantly. It's running rich as far as I can tell, as there is the presence of gas on the plugs, and the only way to get the car to start is to crank it over with it floored with the fuel pump fuse pulled and to...

Your stock master cylinder may not be able to support the larger brakes. You might have to upgrade to a larger master cylinder that can supply the amount of fluid necessary. The stock one was designed to work with tiny brakes, and you're asking it to do WAY more than it was intended for.

I put my jackstands under the subframe. It's worked fine, and I've done more repairs than I care to think about.

Dear sir, yes! It's so easy to change on a Honda Civic, it's ridiculous that they charged that much! They're bad people.

Check your fuses; both under the hood and under that dash. Also, check all of the connections to the cluster. They could be making no contact. You may have a bad cluster, which would require replacing.

Sounds like you have a weak synchro in second. I agree with changing the fluid, at the very least. If you can get a good used transmission for cheap, now would be the time to swap it, though. But, everytime I have access to the clutch, and the clutch has over 50,000 miles on it, I like to change...

I just noticed that, when seeking power, the tendency is to turbocharge. This left me to wonder, why not supercharge? It's easier and ussually cheaper to install a centrifugal supercharger than to install a turbo, but I've never come across a supercharged Civic. Is there any particular reason...

Both my wife's Saab and my Civic read 3 mph faster than actual speed. Then my friends comment that their vehicles read faster than their actual speed. That's why I said in my experience.

They ussually have copper washers for brake line banjo fittings. Any autoparts store should have those, so it shouldn't be hard to find.

I don't have that setup anymore. I just have hood pins, because the hood latch became unreliable. I just used a simple coil spring from the autoparts store. It was about an inch in diameter. I slid a washer through the bottom coil and bolted that to a hole near the hood latch assembly. I didn't...

It seems that most cars, in my experience, say they're going faster than they are by a few miles per hour compared to the computer when hooked up to a scan tool.

Honda recommends their own product, but Dexron/Merc III is compatible. It would be best to use the Honda stuff, of course, just to ensure the best compatibility, but Dexron/Mercon III does work.