f**ked Up My Motor

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JiuJitsu_greg

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not HAYNES! HELMS H. E. L. M. S.

Every page in the HELMS is an EXACT COPY of HONDA SERVICE MANUAL. Here's a link to one on the internet. If you dont have a fast computer, be ready to down load about 1,000 pages of stuff.

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/


Go to that site, register, click on any thing that says "Service Manual" and guess what? It's a HELMS! You cannot purchase a genuine Honda service manual, so HELMS inc copied every page (with permission) EXCEPT for some wiring diagrams. REmember HELMS not HAYNES!

If you're going to correct me, especially if you're going to go through great lenghts, like taking a comparison picture, make sure you read carefully.
:brokenComputer: Oops I just self owned myself right there. If im not wrong does the helms manual not have illustrations? You can buy a Honda service manual from the dealer though. I got mine for 60 bucks.
 


honda_ek9

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:brokenComputer: Oops I just self owned myself right there. If im not wrong does the helms manual not have illustrations? You can buy a Honda service manual from the dealer though. I got mine for 60 bucks.
haha...i would buy it but then i dont wanna spend money...lol...tryin to save up for parts or to take my motor to a shop to get it done...
 

biggbird72

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:brokenComputer: Oops I just self owned myself right there. If im not wrong does the helms manual not have illustrations? You can buy a Honda service manual from the dealer though. I got mine for 60 bucks.
It has the illustrations. It's the one that you have. And yes, you can buy them from Honda. But it's not "OEM" if you want to put it that way. The actual manual from Honda is strictly for the dealership and they sell you the Helms copy. It has a picture in the upper right hand corner in a black square of the chapter your working in right? Like fue chapterl looks like a gas nozzle, brakes looks like a rotor and caliper etc.

Yeah, I'm surprised you got yours from the dealership so cheap, from helminc.com they're 60 bucks usually plus shipping. And of course you know dealers mark up a lot of crap. So anyways, now that that's cleared up, to the O.P.

Good luck to you. :D
 

biggbird72

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well i got a JDM ITR motor...

JDM ITR? The basic break down will be the same as GSR, but as far as torque specs and stuff like that go, you'll have to research that. I'm sure they're a little different on the ITR, even USDM. With that said, try these places,
www.team-integra.net
www.hondaswap.com
www.hondahookup.com
www.g2ic.com <<<--mostly becuase there are ppl there with ITR swaps.


You're going to have to put in a lot of leg work to get the info, then you're gonna have to put in the time to read and understand it, then the wrench time. Good luck
 

honda_ek9

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ey if my pistons hit my spark plugs wouldnt it f**k up my block...so that mean i need top get a whole new motor right...
 

biggbird72

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ey if my pistons hit my spark plugs wouldnt it f**k up my block...so that mean i need top get a whole new motor right...
Honestly, if you believe it to be that messed up, the best thing you can do is pull it out and break it down. A lot of things could've happened, and a lot of things could've resulted becuase of it. Furthermore, whatever caused the failure in the first place would need to be addressed because if not corrected it could repeat and possibly decomission the motor(block).

If your pistons contacted the plug it could mean your rod bolts stretched or came loose, it's possible but unlikely in a ITR motor. But if you have piston-to-valve contact, you'd have to rebuild. It would be too hard to tell without the head off, so you'd have to pull it anyway to check.

It could've been your timing belt. But when your timing belts fails it's usually catasrophic.

It could be something simple like an ignition control module (ignitor).

Literally there are a lot of scenarios that could play out....

If I were you, this is how I'd look at it like this: Since I'll more than likely have to break the motor down anyway, I might as well see if I can get it to run. You can suck out the bits with a ear wax bulb/syringe on a length of vacuum hose, put in new plugs. See if she turns over. Who knows, you might've gotten lucky and only need to replace something simple liike an ICM.

Bottom line is, you'll never know until you get a better inspection which would requre a break down. It's pretty easy to take off the head, you'll need a new gasket which ain't that bad in price. You can learn a lot about what happened just by doing this. Check the links on hondahookup.com to their manuals and the torque specs.
 

honda_ek9

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can you explain the second last things your was saying about the vacum thing...i didnt really understand that...and i couldnt find the torque specs on the hondahookup forum...im register but cant find what i need to find the torque specs...and how to take off vtec head....thanks...


Honestly, if you believe it to be that messed up, the best thing you can do is pull it out and break it down. A lot of things could've happened, and a lot of things could've resulted becuase of it. Furthermore, whatever caused the failure in the first place would need to be addressed because if not corrected it could repeat and possibly decomission the motor(block).

If your pistons contacted the plug it could mean your rod bolts stretched or came loose, it's possible but unlikely in a ITR motor. But if you have piston-to-valve contact, you'd have to rebuild. It would be too hard to tell without the head off, so you'd have to pull it anyway to check.

It could've been your timing belt. But when your timing belts fails it's usually catasrophic.

It could be something simple like an ignition control module (ignitor).

Literally there are a lot of scenarios that could play out....

If I were you, this is how I'd look at it like this: Since I'll more than likely have to break the motor down anyway, I might as well see if I can get it to run. You can suck out the bits with a ear wax bulb/syringe on a length of vacuum hose, put in new plugs. See if she turns over. Who knows, you might've gotten lucky and only need to replace something simple liike an ICM.

Bottom line is, you'll never know until you get a better inspection which would requre a break down. It's pretty easy to take off the head, you'll need a new gasket which ain't that bad in price. You can learn a lot about what happened just by doing this. Check the links on hondahookup.com to their manuals and the torque specs.
 

Coutts

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my guess is it dropped a valve into the cylinder. the valve floating around in there smashed into the plug which caused a dead cylinder, that cylinder and it might have burned a hole through the piston but not likely. we need compression results of ALL cylinders. until we get more info like that all we can do is guess what happened.
 

biggbird72

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can you explain the second last things your was saying about the vacum thing...i didnt really understand that...and i couldnt find the torque specs on the hondahookup forum...im register but cant find what i need to find the torque specs...and how to take off vtec head....thanks...
If there's broken bits of sparkplug or other metal material that you can see in your cylinders, you can get those out easy. I've saved a couple of hydro locked motors (including my own) with a little device you can "MacGuyver" from store bought stuff. If you go to Walgreens or to the pharmacy side of your grocery store, buy either the ear wax kit, or an ear wax syringe. You could also go to PetSmart, or PetCo and buy a medicine syringe for dog medicine or they might even have a syringe at the baby section at Wal-Mart. The point is you get a syringe with a small tip, usually about 1/4 inch. Then go to Autozone, or an cheap autoparts store and get a length of vacuum hose to fit at the end. You can use this contraption to pick up an "bits" you might see resting on top of the piston. If you see anything down there that you can suck up that is. This will allow you to at least attempt to see if it cranks over with new plugs.

Like I said, you'd only want to attempt to crank the motor if you go in knowing good and well that no matter what happens, you'll still end up having to break the motor down. If you get lucky and it starts up, let it run and listen for any pinging or tapping, or clicking. The first hint of a catastrophy cut the motor. Who knows, it may have not done anything like what we're saying and you can recover from this. But I'm a glass full kinda guy ;)

About the manuals', which one are you looking in? It should be a huge .pdf file that takes a long time to download, you can scroll down and there is a step by step on how to tear apart the motor. If you look at the one for GSR it should give you what you need to know how to break it down. Now, as far as the torque specs when you go to put it all back together, that's up to you to find. It's out there somewhere, or else nobody would have rebuilt JDM ITRs in their cars that were worth a damn. I'd try to link something to you but I've never had to deal with JDM motors, and I think it will be good for you to find it on your own so you know how to resource the info when you need to.
 

Coutts

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If there's broken bits of sparkplug or other metal material that you can see in your cylinders, you can get those out easy. I've saved a couple of hydro locked motors (including my own) with a little device you can "MacGuyver" from store bought stuff. If you go to Walgreens or to the pharmacy side of your grocery store, buy either the ear wax kit, or an ear wax syringe. You could also go to PetSmart, or PetCo and buy a medicine syringe for dog medicine or they might even have a syringe at the baby section at Wal-Mart. The point is you get a syringe with a small tip, usually about 1/4 inch. Then go to Autozone, or an cheap autoparts store and get a length of vacuum hose to fit at the end. You can use this contraption to pick up an "bits" you might see resting on top of the piston. If you see anything down there that you can suck up that is. This will allow you to at least attempt to see if it cranks over with new plugs.

Like I said, you'd only want to attempt to crank the motor if you go in knowing good and well that no matter what happens, you'll still end up having to break the motor down. If you get lucky and it starts up, let it run and listen for any pinging or tapping, or clicking. The first hint of a catastrophy cut the motor. Who knows, it may have not done anything like what we're saying and you can recover from this. But I'm a glass full kinda guy ;)
its nice to be optimistic but in this situation theres slim chances of it being alright. theres giong to be something horribly wrong for damage to happen to a spark plug. he was banging off the limiter, either that piston smacked into that plug and every valve in that cylinder, or something got into the combustion chamber and smashed the f**k out of the piston and the plug. either way its garbage the way it sits right now. and you need to give us more info such as good compression and leakdown test results if you want useful help. right now all we can do is guess dude...
 

honda_ek9

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its nice to be optimistic but in this situation theres slim chances of it being alright. theres giong to be something horribly wrong for damage to happen to a spark plug. he was banging off the limiter, either that piston smacked into that plug and every valve in that cylinder, or something got into the combustion chamber and smashed the f**k out of the piston and the plug. either way its garbage the way it sits right now. and you need to give us more info such as good compression and leakdown test results if you want useful help. right now all we can do is guess dude...
well i did the compression test but it didnt read...its either i did it wrong or it actually didnt read...so im fina try it again..also when i look into the cylinder whole i see a chip on my piston...juss only one...and when i took off my vavle cover and looked at the vave from the top...i only saw that one valve dropped or bend....not sure tho...and the treads around were the spark plugs sits it seems like the tread are kinda messed up...not too sure tho...should i still do the compression test....and is it okay to run the car with a chip on the piston...im not sure if theres anything in the piston...so yea...and ill do the compression test again...
 

honda_ek9

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do you know how much this would be....because im on a money buget (broke)....juss got done payin a 200dallor ticket...haha...so yea...and is this goin to effect or make my piston melt because of the chip on the piston...adn can i get a pis of some of the tools...because im still kinda confused on how the stuff looks...and what or how the vacuum hose thing looks like thanks...sorry...hahah..

If there's broken bits of sparkplug or other metal material that you can see in your cylinders, you can get those out easy. I've saved a couple of hydro locked motors (including my own) with a little device you can "MacGuyver" from store bought stuff. If you go to Walgreens or to the pharmacy side of your grocery store, buy either the ear wax kit, or an ear wax syringe. You could also go to PetSmart, or PetCo and buy a medicine syringe for dog medicine or they might even have a syringe at the baby section at Wal-Mart. The point is you get a syringe with a small tip, usually about 1/4 inch. Then go to Autozone, or an cheap autoparts store and get a length of vacuum hose to fit at the end. You can use this contraption to pick up an "bits" you might see resting on top of the piston. If you see anything down there that you can suck up that is. This will allow you to at least attempt to see if it cranks over with new plugs.

Like I said, you'd only want to attempt to crank the motor if you go in knowing good and well that no matter what happens, you'll still end up having to break the motor down. If you get lucky and it starts up, let it run and listen for any pinging or tapping, or clicking. The first hint of a catastrophy cut the motor. Who knows, it may have not done anything like what we're saying and you can recover from this. But I'm a glass full kinda guy ;)

About the manuals', which one are you looking in? It should be a huge .pdf file that takes a long time to download, you can scroll down and there is a step by step on how to tear apart the motor. If you look at the one for GSR it should give you what you need to know how to break it down. Now, as far as the torque specs when you go to put it all back together, that's up to you to find. It's out there somewhere, or else nobody would have rebuilt JDM ITRs in their cars that were worth a damn. I'd try to link something to you but I've never had to deal with JDM motors, and I think it will be good for you to find it on your own so you know how to resource the info when you need to.
 

boosted to 26ps

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your best option to figure out how bad it is and what needs to be done is listed below..........

pull the head off the block

until you do that....you will have no exact idea of how bad it actually is or isnt. save yourself the trouble and save us from guessing all the time.
 

biggbird72

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Crash course in compression testing.

1.) Warm the engine to temp
2.) Pull the fuze from the under hood fuze box. I believe it's the 7.5 Backup/ECU or the 10, it's the one for the ECU.
3.) Pull out Plug #1.
4.) Install compression tester
5.) Make sure you're not holding the relief valve button
6.) Have a friend hold the gas pedal all the way down and crank the motor. Let it turn over about 5 or 6 times.
7.) Record your results
8.) Rinse. Wash. Repeat.
 

honda_ek9

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Crash course in compression testing.

1.) Warm the engine to temp
2.) Pull the fuze from the under hood fuze box. I believe it's the 7.5 Backup/ECU or the 10, it's the one for the ECU.
3.) Pull out Plug #1.
4.) Install compression tester
5.) Make sure you're not holding the relief valve button
6.) Have a friend hold the gas pedal all the way down and crank the motor. Let it turn over about 5 or 6 times.
7.) Record your results
8.) Rinse. Wash. Repeat.
cant even start up my car to make it warm...LOL
 

honda_ek9

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your best option to figure out how bad it is and what needs to be done is listed below..........

pull the head off the block

until you do that....you will have no exact idea of how bad it actually is or isnt. save yourself the trouble and save us from guessing all the time.
HAHAHA..im trying to but then i dontnoe how to take off my vtec head....i tried researching but then i couldnt find anything....or how to do it...
 

DarkCreep

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Dang that sucks.. Motor died while doing what it was supposed to do.
 
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