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You will also need to replace your front lower arms with the arms from the EX. Remove exhaust from the manifold, remove shift linkage (either from trans side, or shifter side). Place bar in position, bolt in D-brackets. Bolt endlinks to new lower arms. Re-connect exhaust and shift linkage...

Look at the dyno chart in my sig. It doesn't even drop after 7.5k, it levels out with a small decrease. Intake restriction. Stock intake manifold.

What are you (your tuner) using to tune with?

If your car has a manual rack and you want to fit a power steering rack on it, you will need a new subframe as well. The body of the power rack is MUCH larger than the non-power rack. There is clearancing on the subframe meant for a power rack.

Some pics of the hatch at the Nautocross this past Sunday. I say nauto... it was more like a track day as it was held on the infield portion of the Nashville Super Speedway. A little high speed for an autocross event. Still sanctioned and all that hoopty.

I think I weighed an OE D16Z6 flywheel out at 18 lbs.

You also have to take into account that with a wider wheel, comparing just the offset isn't accurate. Compare a 5" steelie with +45mm offset and a 7" wheel with +40mm offset. 45mm = 1.77", so with the 5" wheel, you have 4.27" of wheel on the inboard section of the hub, and it comes out of the...

You will lose compression with the Y7 cylinder head on a Y8 block. The Y7 head has a larger combustion chamber than the Y8. You're giving yourself even more room up top with the Y7 head.

Have you checked your engine mounts? If they are broken or torn at all they will cause difficulties in shifting. If they're all 100%, then you're most likely looking at internal issues with the shifter forks.

I love Chrome so much more than IE or Firefox. Chrome ftw.

By shuddering... is it grinding into those gears? Can you get it into gear? How much fluid did you put in?

Does it change once the engine comes up to temp? You're experiencing cold start. The engine will idle at a faster speed in an attempt to warm itself up quicker. If it never comes out of cold start, you may have an issue with your Fast Idle Air Valve. It is directly below the throttle body...

That would only be true if he had a 92-95 Civic, as they have 30/30 valves. The 96-00 DX/CX and Si all share the same proportioning valve. The Si has a 7/8" MC however, whereas the DX/DC/EX have a 13/16".

Don't remove the exhaust manifold from the head. Remove the exhaust hangers and you'll have enough play to get the cat off the down pipe and be able to install the donut gasket just fine while it's on the car.

You don't need to change your proportioning valve. You need to get a larger master cylinder. The rear calipers use more brake fluid than the drum brake wheel cylinders. A larger master cylinder will pump more brake fluid to them.

My first thought is TPS. Do you have an extra throttle body laying around to try?

A ball joint press can be rented from Autozone. It's like a big ass c-clamp. Good luck. Ball joints are never fun even with all the right tools and in a decent garage.

If you're autocrossing with boost, you should be on rcomps. Unless you're still in a novice class, then go for the Bridgestone RE01R. Extremely good grip and decent-ish tread life. Far better than Falken Azenis and a bit better than Dunlop Direzzas. Maybe you should just get a second set of...

You still must have your front toe and rear toe aligned.

If you're doing burn outs all of the time, don't ever complain about a tire not lasting. "Doctor, it hurts when I do this." "Don't do that."